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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2012, 09:45 AM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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1st Knife in Progress

Here is my first knife in progress.

1084
5.25" x 1" x 1/8"
2.25" blade
3.0" handle

The easy part is done, grinding it out.




When completed, is designed for cord wrap

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  #2  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:02 AM
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cbsmith111 cbsmith111 is offline
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Interesting design. Yeah, that is the easy part. I'm not sure if those super thin spots around the hole you drilled in the butt end will give you problems during heat treat or not. I really don't know, it just looks really thin to me. You can ask the guys with experience for advice on that. I just didn't know if it would be prone to crack or anything like that because it was so thin.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2012, 11:12 AM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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Originally Posted by cbsmith111 View Post
Interesting design. Yeah, that is the easy part. I'm not sure if those super thin spots around the hole you drilled in the butt end will give you problems during heat treat or not. I really don't know, it just looks really thin to me. You can ask the guys with experience for advice on that. I just didn't know if it would be prone to crack or anything like that because it was so thin.
Thanks, I had the same thought, should have likely waited to grind it down that much. I have plenty of steel, planning on many botched attempts.
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2012, 03:47 PM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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The simple answer is to just not quench that part of the blank. I agree, the forward hole is a little too far forward. When grinding/filing your plunge you'll probably want to move it forward on the blade.
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2012, 10:43 PM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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So, I had low expectations on my first attempt at beveling my 1st knife, I didn't disappoint.

So after 3 hours, here is where I am. The ricasso destroyed me, it wasn't great, I decided to keep grinding the blade, it looked ok, then I went back, big mistake, should have got the ricasso correct first. Once I got it pretty good, I kept bumping it all the way to the spine. Then I ground down the sides of the knife, end up taking alot of thickness off, to much but I knew this would truly be about testing and learning on the first few attempts. The grinds were perfectly flat and the side, but the less material I had to work with, it became worse, though fatigue may enter the equation.

Not frustrated, just the beginning. Though this blade won't see much use, it will be heated in my forge and then I'll learn how to put an edge bevel on this.

I've read many different view on how thick to leave the edge before heat treat, .050 to 0.015, any thoughts on the edge thickness in the pics, too thin?




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Old 12-01-2012, 06:36 AM
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You heattreating in a forge or oven? If in a forge, just watch you heat as it approaches critical and don't let it get too hot. That's a small knife so there won't be much chance of stress-breaking at any of the holes due to use. Would take it to a finer grit finish before HT.
Pretty nice little utility blade for a first.


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  #7  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:01 AM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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You heattreating in a forge or oven? If in a forge, just watch you heat as it approaches critical and don't let it get too hot. That's a small knife so there won't be much chance of stress-breaking at any of the holes due to use. Would take it to a finer grit finish before HT.
Pretty nice little utility blade for a first.
Thanks.
I'm building a stove pipe forge, it will only get hot enough for heat treat, using a small propane torch for heat.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:31 AM
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What did you use to grind your bevels? Just curious.
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2012, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruebarb View Post
Thanks.
I'm building a stove pipe forge, it will only get hot enough for heat treat, using a small propane torch for heat.
Don't underestimate the power of propane. I use a small stovepipe forge with a Bernzomatic torch burning propane, and it will get steel hot enough to forge. I haven't tried welding with it. The point is, it will get hot enough to overheat your steel, ultimately causing problems with the quality of your heat treat. If you don't have a way to measure the temperature, at least get a metal magnet (not the plastic ones!) and check your blade as it is heating up for non-magnetic.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:05 PM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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What did you use to grind your bevels? Just curious.
1 x 30 belt sander, cheapo Harbor Freight. I found half way through that the belt was run running flat against the backing, made a few adjustments.
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:07 PM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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Don't underestimate the power of propane. I use a small stovepipe forge with a Bernzomatic torch burning propane, and it will get steel hot enough to forge. I haven't tried welding with it. The point is, it will get hot enough to overheat your steel, ultimately causing problems with the quality of your heat treat. If you don't have a way to measure the temperature, at least get a metal magnet (not the plastic ones!) and check your blade as it is heating up for non-magnetic.
I plan on using the color and a magnet, propane at 21% O2 is only 1900 F top temp, so I could exceed the 1500 target, but I will be careful.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:15 PM
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AUBE AUBE is offline
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Looking good so far.

I would recommend chamfering the holes before heat treatment. It will reduce chances of stress cracks....plus many people think chamfered holes look more "finished".


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  #13  
Old 12-01-2012, 04:00 PM
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Lookin good man! Keep at it and you'll get the hang of it in no time. If your using that para cord for the handle try taking the core out before you do the wrap. I find it gives a nicer clean looking finished product. That's just my opinion I hope I'm not comming off as a "do it my way" kind of guy lol.


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Old 12-01-2012, 08:49 PM
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Like NJS says, still got to keep an eye on it.
My forges are fired with Lp and I can melt steel in them. I do forge welding in two of them using venturi (not blown) torches. Lot of "experts" say you can't do that....it's a design application thing. Not hard to accomplish at all.
Friend of mine used to make and use 2-brick forges fired with a simple handheld Lp torch and I had to show him how to regulate his forge so he didn't burn up his steel. Got way too hot. Just keep an eye on the heats and catch non-magnetic on the rise not the fall in temperature.


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  #15  
Old 12-02-2012, 09:23 AM
Ruebarb Ruebarb is offline
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Originally Posted by metal99 View Post
Lookin good man! Keep at it and you'll get the hang of it in no time. If your using that para cord for the handle try taking the core out before you do the wrap. I find it gives a nicer clean looking finished product. That's just my opinion I hope I'm not comming off as a "do it my way" kind of guy lol.
Thanks, Actually I plan on doing the flat no core wrap first, then going over it with the reg cord. It's only 1/8, need a little bulk for the handle.
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