Stencil Help

[fisherpard]

I have plenty of photographic stencil material and a light box from Martronics but just can't get stencils to turn out decent. I already have my artwork done on clear transparent sheets.

Is there anyone out their who would lend me a hand and help me make some good stencils. I will send them all the supplies and they could even keep some of the stencil un-used stencil material for themselves. I have already done the artwork on the computer and printed it on the transparent.

I just can't seem to get the technique down and am tired of wasting stencil material.

any help appreciated,
Randy (fisherpard)
priderock@charter.net

ps I have the Matronics 440 Stencil making box but just don't come up with usable stencils. They look good but when finished but they are just like a picture on a clear piece of paper. When you rub your finger accross it , it is smooth as silk. I have become flustrated!

[Ray Rogers]

Rather than have someone else do it for you, let's try to figure out why the process isn't working. If that fails, then having someone else do it would be worth a try.

You said of your finished stencil "they are just like a picture on a clear piece of paper". That sounds wrong to me. Let me try to describe what you should have and you tell me if this is what you are getting.

You start with your artwork on clear transparent sheets (as you said). This would be the same as if you drew the art on a window pane using a felt marker. This is called the positive image.

Next, you put the positive in the light box and the sheet of stencil material on top of that and turn on the light in the light box. The light stays on maybe two minutes. The stencil material is removed and put in the developer solution for, maybe, 4 minutes. What you should have then is a negative image of your art. This negative would like like a window pane that you first painted solid with some heavy paint (possibly blue depending on the stencil material) and then you used a tool to scratch your art onto the window pane. Light can only pass through the artwork, the rest of the window is solid and opaque. BTW, the raw stencil material must never be exposed to room light, it must only be handled in the dark or under a 'safe' light.

The times I quoted are for the process I use which may be different from the Martronics set up but the idea is the same. If the results and process I described are not what you are getting, tell us step by step what you are doing .......

[fisherpard]

I have a stop watch so I can measure the time. I have never went as low as two minutes on exposure time. The least is 3 minutes and the longest is 5.5 minutes. I then remove the protective cover from both sides of the stencil material and put it in the developer solution. I have developed from two minutes up to six minutes. I rub the stencil down with two pieces of sponge and remove any sticky substance.

Then I take it into the house and wash it with lukewarm water. It looks perfect as far as coping the artwork over to the stencil but really just looks like the artwork on the transparent paper.

I have even went through the developing process again after I see the stencil did not make anykind of texture feeling where the artwork is. Martronics sent me a sample stencil and I can feel the artwork on the stencil. So by this I know mine is not correct.

When using the ones I make I get a little of the artwork on the blade but not consistant. When I use their sample stencil I get perfect marks.

The only thing I might be doing is over exposing the stencil since three minutes is the shortest time I have used. They recommend 4 minutes so I never thought to try 2 minutes.

What can I try?

thanks,
Randy

[cwp]

Randy,

Couple of things. My stencil material has instructions to remove the protective cover before exposing. Plastics are amazing at there ability to block UV (usually the dominate wavelength for exposure sensitivity).

Since you are using the manufacturers exposure unit and supplies, I would always start with their directions and move times from there.

Do you have a picture of the stencil you get? Also, are the edges sharp and crisp, or kind of jagged, and if jagged, which way (into the stencil area, or out of it)?

Images are probably the best at understanding, that way we can see what you are seeing.

--Carl

[fisherpard]

The images are very sharp on the stencil material after exposure and developing but look just like the artwork on the transpariences. Therfore, really no way for the stencil to work properly if they are a carbon copy of the artwork on the transpariences. I used a laser printer to get the very best quality and the artwork contains no small lines. All good and bold.

Not sure what I am doing wrong unless I am getting too much light on the stencils. I usually do this in my shop right before the sunset so only just enough light to see what I am doing. The only thing I can think of might be over exposure.

thanks,
Randy

[Ray Rogers]

I agree with CWP, remove the plastic BEFORE the exposure. Remove it from both sides if your stencil material has plastic on both sides (mine does, some don't) and start with the manufacturer's time recommendations. Most likely, that's about all you'll need to solve the problem...

[cwp]

Randy, I picture would help greatly.

Do not use the stencils with natural light. Go to lowes/home depot/etc and get a yellow bug light (or red photo light if you can find one). Even @ sunset you will probably damage the stencil material, if you can see, it is getting exposed.

When you say it looks just like the transparency, I am trying to understand this (pictures).
Let's say the original sheet is Blue (green is another common color).
You expose and develop, is the stencil now blue with a white cloth-like artwork, or white cloth-like with a blue artwork?

Try this again and remove the plastic before exposure. Do it in a dark room with only a yellow bug-light or a red light. Also follow the manufactures instructions, and don't expose the stencil to anything in the environment besides the yellow light (no other light) until the developing is done.

Let us know how it goes.

--Carl

[fisherpard]

Martronics recommends leaving the tape on the stencil material until after exposure. They recommend starting at 4 minutes exposure.

If I remove the plastic, How long do you think I should expose to the light?

thanks,
Randy

[fisherpard]

The stencils are clear blueish tint with a darker blue plastic on each side. They are a little heaver than the transparancies but slick like them. I will try and include some photo's.

thanks,
Randy

[fisherpard]

I just purchased a yellow 40 watt bug light. I almost bought a black light but nobody mentioned using one of those. So I will give it a try after dark only using the yellow bug light so I can see what I am doing. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

thanks,
Randy

[cwp]

Randy,

It was good to stay away from the black light. That is UV and would have exposed your stencils faster than just about anything. The yellow should work well, it's what I use. I would also kind of point it away from your work area, so you are in the fringes of the light, since the less light on the stencil the better.

Having never used Martronics, I can't give a good answer on exposure length. I get stencil material from one of the manufacturers (http://www.img-electromark.com/) and they recommend removing the film. This makes sense, since most plastics can filter UV and that is what you are trying to get to the stencil. If it was me, I would try one of each (with and without plastic film) at the recommended 4 minutes exposure and compare the results.

Keep us updated.

--Carl

[fisherpard]

Here is a stencil I made last night. Exposure time was 2 minutes and developed for 4 minutes. I can not take the coating off the stencil because it is sticky before exposure. It does seem a little better than the others but still pretty smooth. I will try a etch with it tonight.







all comments welcome,
Randy (fisherpard)
priderock@charter.net

[Ray Rogers]

That looks just like my stencils. Smooth is OK, the only thing that matters is that the blue part is solid enough so that electrolyte cannot pass through it. Yes, the film is sticky when you remove the plastic before exposure. But, if you're results are as good as they appear to be then not removing the plastic doesn't seem to be a problem for you. That stencil should work fine....

[cwp]

I agree. From what you have said, I would guess that you were partially exposing the stencil material with sunlight. This looks good, and I would think you will have good results with it.

--Carl

[fisherpard]

I had real good luck on the "ROLLER" part of the stencil however the last two e's of Tennessee did not come out real good. So I taped over the Tennessee on my Second try and got the best etch yet. It must be the font I am using on Tennessee. It is smaller also.

But the good news is I think I can make some good stencils now! I was overexposing and not develping long enough. I think I was also exposing the stencil material to too much sunlight. The yellow light really makes a difference. I will post my etch tonight on my KITH knife.

thanks,
Randy (fisherpard)
priderock@charter.net