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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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3rd + 4th Knives
Hi everyone,
I've been slowly working away on a few projects. I've got some photos of knife number 3 and 4. I'm learning so much with each attempt and I feel that I am improving, so I count that as a win. Knife #3 -5/32" O1 Tool Steel. OAL 6-1/2", Blade 3-1/4". Handle is wrapped with waxed cord, and then paracord overtop. Gun Blued (if that's even a word) to get the darkened color. Knife #4 - 5/32" O1 Tool Steel. OAL 5-3/4", Blade 2-1/2". Scales are Stabilized Maple. When I drew the design for the friction folder, I somehow thought the triangle would be a great idea. This is what comes of trying to reinvent the wheel. It looked SO good to me on paper, and cardboard, but once I finished, it doesn't work well in a pocket, and there really isn't enough contact with the spine of the rest of the knife to account for any kind of leverage when it is being used. I laughed at myself over my ignorance and over confidence. A lesson learned. To quote a co-worker and close friend of mine "One learns nothing by doing it right." Either way, it is coming along. The steel was also too thick for such a small knife, but it was what I had around, so another lesson learned out of this. It seems like with each project, I try something new to me, which results in a fair amount of research and time spent reading the threads here. It makes each project take more time, but realistically, I'm aware that it is no race. Please don't judge too harshly, but I certainly would appreciate some feedback, and or encouragement. The tools I have been using have been a drill press, hacksaw, hand files, and sandpaper. Cheers, Last edited by mwilson; 04-13-2014 at 03:08 PM. |
#2
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Sounds like you already figured out that things like that pointy triangle aren't a good idea for a pocket knife. Carry that thought a little farther and round off all the corners on that handle. The handle doesn't need to be round but any kind of pointy part will quickly wear a hole in your pants. Countersinking those big screws would be a nice touch too. You're getting there ....
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#3
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Thank you Ray.
Your quick responses and constructive criticism is always helpful. I really appreciate all the wisdom imparted by you, and everyone on the forum. This has been an invaluable resource in my education, and will continue to be my first stop on the Internet. I've been squirreling money away for some new equipment and in the coming months, I may take the plunge into the 2x72 world. Scary thought. I'm sure I'll be posting a ton of questions and searching lots as well at that time. |
#4
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Matt
you won't regret the 2x72, they turn out to be a workhorse in the shop for all kinds of projects. Yeah I've seen that "triangle" design tried by several. Does look kind of neat in the mind's eye, but plays heck with the pocket and gives no real "safe" hold. Study a bunch more of the old makers' style. Dad was quick to tell me...there's always a good reason for the way something has been done or made if it has been around and used a good while. Have noticed that most opt to carry FF's in a pouch sheath rather than the pocket anyway. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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After my blunder with the triangle, I looked around for some designs and examples from other makers. I found some templates and designs that made sense in my mind that I am working on modifying to suit my tastes and needs. My hope is that my second attempt at the friction folder will be more usable and clean.
I am also ordering new steel, 1/8'' to be easier to work with. Any recommendations on where to start looking for 2x72 options in canada? I'm aware of the no weld grinder plans available online, but I doubt my own construction when in comes to precision. Right now I am living in Nova Scotia, however the springtime may see us moving back home to Alberta |
#6
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I am super impressed with the versatility of Rob's KMG grinder. It's very well made (darn near Bomb proof) and while the price is expensive, it's a lot less than the cost of other brands; lotsa bang for your buck. I bought the 2hp motor with the variable speed controller. Beaumont Metal works is the way to go in my humble opinion. There are several YouTube videos you can see if you google Beaumont metal works (the website is those three words and a .com)
I'm sure there are other quality machines from smaller shops out there, but I pulled the trigger on this one and do not regret it one bit. Rob is a super guy to deal with, and its one heck of a machine. good luck, Sir. You are off to a great start. Alex __________________ AT "We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow, And watch where the chalk-white arrows go To the place where the sidewalk ends." Shel Silverstein |
#7
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Thanks for the advice. It will certainly be taken into consideration.
I have been doodling some designs, wondering about building one, keeping in mind what i mentioned above, about my concerns with precision. All the home built grinders I see out there are 3 or 4 wheel designs. I presume based off forum searches that the reason for this is there are more options and useability from the 3-4 wheel designs. Even still I thought i would ask. Is there a big difference between 2 wheel designs and 3-4 wheel designs? Less wheels means less money out of my pocket if I do design and build my own. Any input is welcome. I may be way off the mark. Thanks |
#8
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There really isn't a 4 wheel design (as far as I know) but you may be referring to the wheels at the ends of a platen which has been mounted on a 3 wheel grinder. That would temporarily give you 4 wheels but that platen pops off there to be replaced by the large contact wheel returning the grinder to the basic 3 wheel design. This design is much more flexible than a 2 wheel grinder. One of the primary advantages is that just as you can swap between platen and contact wheel you can also put on a small wheel attachment. A small wheel attachment is mostly used for grinding tight curves like finger grooves but when you need one nothing else will do as well. There are other less common attachments that can also be added.
Its also easier to adjust for different belt lengths with a 3 wheel design. Specialty belts like ScotchBrite and leather belts aren't as precisely sized as our usual grinding belts and the machine might need to be adjusted several times as you switch back and forth. The venerable Grizzly grinder is a 2 wheel design and probably half of us (at least) have owned them. No telling how many knives have been made on the Griz and the Coote or Kalamazoo 2 wheel grinders. That being as it may be just ask anyone who has moved up from a 2 wheel design to a 3 wheel if they would ever voluntarily go back .... |
#9
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Nope, not unless I had to. Even though I grind very little, versatility and variable speed are sweet!
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
2x72, advice, art, bee, blade, design, drill, education, files, folder, folding knife, gun, handle, knife, knives, made, maple, paracord, pocket, pocket knife, press, scales, sheath, steel, tools |
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