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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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what size
i'm getting around to trying Ray Roger's liner lock tutorial, and I have ordered some pivots. I ordered 3/16's pivots, but they all read .186 on the caliper. My questions is what size drill and ream should i order? I guess I'm not real sure on how much different in size should the pivot hole (440c blade) be from the barrel pivot i'm using. I plan on polishing up the barrel pivot some before drilling because from what i read it will help the action some. Thanks in advance for any help.
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#2
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I like to drill with a #14 drill and then ream to 3/16ths. If you don't get too agressive with the pivot polishing that should do fine. If you don't already have one, be sure to get a drill chart so you can easily see the relationship between sizes of drills.
Be sure to send me a pic of the knife when you're done and I'll post it in the tutorial..... Last edited by Ray Rogers; 06-25-2004 at 12:03 PM. |
#3
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I'm just a newb and don't know much, but reaming those holes to .1875 just makes them too sloppy for my taste. You end up with 1.5 thou clearance which made mine wobble like a $5 import. I ended up getting off-size reamers so I can ream 0, 1/2, or 1 thou clearance and I'm much happier now.
-Ben |
#4
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Like Ben, I also have some off sized reamers and you will end up with a collection of them if you build many folders. There are a lot of factors that will affect the fit of your pivot and right now one of them is how much you polish that pivot. The accuracy of your calipers and how well you use them can also make tiny differences that will make your attempts at buying off sized reamers a little frustrating at first because you'll buy what seems mathematically 'perfect' and it will bind the pivot or still be too sloppy. This is your first folder, don't expect perfection and don't be overly concerned about 1.5 thousandths until you know whether or not it really makes any difference to you with the exact tools and methods you use. You have to start somewhere.
If you do want to start acquiring some off sized reamers MSC and McMaster-Carr are both good sources... |
#5
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Off sized reamers help to match odd sized fittings.
Most people run a reamer like a drill, yet they don't work the same. How much are you removing per hole with the reamer? It should be .005"-.010" total for the reaming op. Run reamers slow RPM and constant down pressure, don't let it spin freely or it will overcut. Too much rpm will cause it to overcut. Pilot hole not big enough makes reamer cut funny too, same as pilot hole being too large. Consistancy is the key here. I always countersink before I run my reamer too, so to not push that burr lip into the new reamed hole afterwards. A reamer has 4 or more flutes cutting at the same time. If there is anyslop in the set up, it will cut uneven holes because the flutes begin to bounce off one side and gets pushed into the other side. This is why constant pressure is needed and slow RPM's. A drill is suppose to give you 2 even chips coming out during work, yet most often one chip is larger that the other or only one comes out. This means that the drill is not ground even on the face where it cuts. Reamers work the same way, except there are more flutes cutting. If only one tooth is cutting, it won't be true or round when finished. Just because a tool is new, doesn't mean it is ground evenly either. These are things to watch for in making accurate holes with reamers. Generally.0005 tolerance is good for fit ups on pivots, or 1/2 of .001" clearence. More play causes wiggles, less play causes binds. |
#6
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thanks for the help guys. I had an enco book but didn't find anything close enough. i'm checking out the other sites.
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blade, knife, knives |
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