MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Ed Caffrey's Workshop

Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-30-2007, 05:20 PM
Txcwboy's Avatar
Txcwboy Txcwboy is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melissa TX
Posts: 796
Send a message via ICQ to Txcwboy
Building forge questions

I bought a 7.5 gal air tank and I am going to cut it open. I am looking for somewhere to get the shelf for the bottom of it .Whats the material of the shelf called ? Mullite ?
Also I am going to pick up a piece of pipe to use as support of the burner. It shouldnt be galvanized correct ? I have one side burner I was going to use with it. Just for heat treating. Any links to help out also would be nice

thanks !
Dave
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-30-2007, 06:17 PM
cdent cdent is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: aiea, hi
Posts: 805
Hi Dave,
You may not need any special floor in a heat treat forge (satanite, maybe itc? on the wool right). If you decide you really need something, then how about a piece of fire brick.

I got a lot of info from Ron Riel/abana and zoeller forge websites.I'd steer away from galvanized, but my mounting tube really doesn't get too hot. You should be able to use this set up for general forging, and it doesn't have to be a specialty ht forge.

Best New Year, Craig
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-30-2007, 09:21 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,612
I use Mizzou refractory that I bought from Darrel Ellis to coat the lining of my last forge with. From what I understand, it is about as flux resistant as it can get and it gives a nice thick layer of refractory to protect the ceramic fiber insulation. To be on the safe side I would agree not to use galvinized pipe where it will be exposed to temperature greater than a couple hundred degrees. That should give a more than adequate safety margin.

Doug Lester


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-30-2007, 09:23 PM
Ed Caffrey's Avatar
Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Great Falls, Montana, USA
Posts: 4,393
Send a message via AIM to Ed Caffrey Send a message via Yahoo to Ed Caffrey
I agree with Craig, use a "half" fire brick for the shelf. If you were referring the the insul-board that a lot of commercial kilns use, that stuff is god awful expensive, and is more fragile than glass. I've been using the half fire bricks in the bottom of my horizontal forge for over 15 years, and at about $1 each, its a whole lot more economical than the insul-board. About every 6 months, or whenever I reline the forge, I change out the firebrick on the bottom. If you use the insul-board, especially if you set stuff on it, it will get torn up very quickly and will cost much more to replace.


__________________
WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET

Caffreyknives@gmail.com

"Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES."
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-30-2007, 10:28 PM
Txcwboy's Avatar
Txcwboy Txcwboy is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melissa TX
Posts: 796
Send a message via ICQ to Txcwboy
When you say "fire brick" , do you mean the light weight stuff or the heavy stuff ? I have some heavy stuff already.

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-31-2007, 07:38 AM
Ed Caffrey's Avatar
Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Great Falls, Montana, USA
Posts: 4,393
Send a message via AIM to Ed Caffrey Send a message via Yahoo to Ed Caffrey
The "heavy stuff", it is tougher, and will last much longer than the light weight ones. (their less expensive too) If you were to take a regular sized brick and split it lengthwise, you'd have two pieces....thats what I refer to as a "split". It will be the same length and width as a brick, but only 1/2 the thickness. They will be thin enough to line the bottom of a forge/kiln, and provide a relatively durable surface to sit work on and prevent damage to the lining.


__________________
WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET

Caffreyknives@gmail.com

"Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES."
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
forge, forging


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:40 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved