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Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment. |
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#1
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etch over HT colors
I just got five 440C blades back from HT at TKS. The three I had cryo quenched look pretty cool with groovy colors everywhere.
I wonder if a FC etch on the existing HT finish with no grinding at all would be cool? Anyone ever try it before? __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#2
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You probably won't get anything out of putting 440C in ferric chloride. Ferric is a pretty mild etchant, and with 440 being stainless......I suspect it would be about like putting the blade in water. Also, the colors that are present after heat treating are an oxide coating, and would prevent the ferric from doing much.
Ferric works best on alloy/tool steels of the non-stainless variety. For stainless you need something much stronger (and more dangerous) like nitric, sulfuric, etc. If your going to go this route, I highly encourage you to learn and understand the dangers in using these types of etchants, without the proper respect, they can kill you. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#3
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Thanks Ed! I am new to stainless work.
I did dip a completed knife in FC recently and noticed a much milder effect on the 416SS pins that I used than what was present on the blade. Yet, it was noticable. I elected to buff them back up to a shine. I have done some reading on royal water etching, and yes, I am well aware of the dangers. I was hoping to avoid using a muratic/nitric mix by using the FC, but since I am also planning to do decorative etching of scenes and designs in 440C, and since you have informed me that FC will not work for that either, I guess I should go ahead and tool up. Thanks again. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#4
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More on FC and acids
Well,
I tried an FC etch on 440C and it actually did do a fair etch worthy of exploring on a knife. The finish is a light matte gray with very uniform texture. I used a hard ground on the test piece and the effect once I cleaned it off was something like a tactical gray camo finish like you might find on an Airkat knife by Dwayne Carrillo. That being said, the cut is not deep or dark enough for design etching and so I'm left with the more dangerous acids to work with. I called Graphic Chemical and Ink today to ask about nitric. They sell it in half or full strength, but UPS won't ship full strength and charges a $20 premium on the half strength stuff. I'm thinking I might want to go the route of muratic acid since I understand it is a bit more user friendly. My question is this: Is muratic alone (heated of course) enough to get the job done? If not, is half strength nitric? __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
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