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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#211
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Whew!!
That's good news, Mike. You're gonna' have a big old toothpick. I guess no one else has a set of prints that are out of scale, since no one else has replied. But then, it seems you and I are the only ones working anyway. |
#212
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I think so Don maybe everyone else started memorial weekend early .
Ya she is going to be a little bit bigger . |
#213
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Peening the pins
It's time to counterbore the tops of the pin holes in order to let the heads expand when peening.
I used a #40 (0.098) drill to just enter the tops of the bolster holes about 1/16" deep. Since the pin holes are all 3/32" this gives the head of the pins about 0.004" to expand inside the c'bore. This is absolutely necessary in order for the peened pin heads to be hidden after the bolsters are finished. The photo shows how I set the spindle stop to the correct depth. You never want this drill to go all the way thru. After this I temporarily assembled the handle without the backspring or blade and finish ground the front and inside areas of the handle that cannot be ground with the blade in place. This is very important to do before the final assembly, otherwise you risk touching the blade or spring with a grinding belt. My blade and backspring Have filework and cannot be ground now. They are both finished. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-20-2009 at 01:56 PM. |
#214
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Make each pin one diameter longer than the overall thickness of the knife bolster area. For instance, since my pins are 3/32" I add 3/32" to 1/8" to the width of the assembled knife bolster and make the pin that length.
Don't make the pins too long. That might cause the end of the pin to bend instead of mushrooming out while peening. Polish the pins to remove anything that might show up after the heads are peened. No oil, grease or trash allowed!! Clean and polish your hammer. Use a steel backup while gently peening all the way around each head. Start on one side, turn it over, and peen that side. Peen alternate sides until the heads are peened all the way down. Be very careful when peening the pivot pin. Peen a little, move the blade to be sure it's not binding, peen again, move the blade, peen again until the blade is snug between the liners with no play. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-20-2009 at 01:41 PM. |
#215
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I've ground the pins flush and finish ground the handles all over to 320 grit.
The knife looks good and works very well. Walks and talks just right to suit me. The last remaining thing to do is to hand sand the handle all over up to around 800 grit, then buff the complete handle. FYI, this is the knife made with spot welded bolsters. There are no welds or pins showing. I'll post photos of the finished knife later. Gotta' take a satisfied nap. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-21-2009 at 03:45 PM. |
#216
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Just a note
If you're not doing any filework on your folder it's perfectly acceptable and preferred to finish grind the spine of the backspring and the blade after final assembly.
I couldn't do that because it would have ruined my filework. |
#217
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Is anyone else working???
I'd like to hear from all you guys about your WIP.
Other than Mike and myself it sure is quiet around here! |
#218
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Well Don, I spent the last 2-3 days working on making backsprings........... I was unable to use the pattern so I've been trying to make my own. I'm having trouble with the correct size around the rear pin. The first time I forgot to allow for the rear pin to be repositioned (1/32 to 1/16 upward) and made the backspring too narrow to drill.
Just trial and error until I'm happy............. haven't had one yet, but I not giving up. Don, Just a quick thought............... does the rear bolster pin act as a post for the backspring to rest on ? That would make since and solve many problems. It would also allow me to assemble the knife easier. BB |
#219
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Good to hear from you, BB.
I'd drill thru the backspring. Your blade might hit the pin. Try making everything oversize like I do, and just finish the contour on the underside of the spring. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-21-2009 at 07:41 AM. |
#220
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BB, did you mean you can't use the pattern because it's out of scale? If so, your blades might not match the liners.
The blades and spring are both on the same page, so they have to be the same scale. |
#221
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What do you guys think of my workbench surface as seen in my photos?
21 years of knifemaking on that solid maple surface has left it a little scarred and blackish. |
#222
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Mr Robinson, i've benn making knives for about three years, and my table looks already just like yours
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#223
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Hey there, Papi!!
Nice to have your input here. My bench was completely refinished about 10 or 12 years ago. It was a beautiful maple finish. Guys, Papi makes lots of beautiful knives. |
#224
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Hi Don!
My stuff still in customs..........that's why I haven't started yet. If it does not clear customs next week, I'll start with O1. Nevertheless, I'm following close this thread. |
#225
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Don, I don't want to step on your build or info, but I would like to add a little input of my own knowledge just to help both now and in the future.
Just a note about the peening of pins: if you have trouble peening the pins or especially on pearl or fragle material. You can make a pin starter with a 1" x 2" piece of bronze or brass; drill for the size of pins being used then use a tapered reamer to taper the holeabout 75% of th thickness of the mateial. take two small pieces of scrap micarta and cut a small grove across the length of one piece. Place a pin into the bronze or brass mini-anvil, leave the thickness of the pin material above the mini-anvil. Next place the pieces of micarta around the pin on the underside of the mini-anvil and clamp into a vice and then peen as Don described. Next use the tapered reamer to taper the holes of handle material, (ONLY TAPER THE HOLES ABOUT ONE-HALF (1/2) THE THICKNESS OF THE HANDLE MATERIAL SCALES. This way when you go to peen the handle material to the liners one half 1/2 of the job will be already done putting less stress on any fragle scale material. Just remember that you need to counter bore/counter sink the inside pin holes of the liners. After you go through a couple of hundred dollars of pearl material as one maker did prior to me telling him about this, it will make a differance in the world. Thanks for letting me step in on the build. Curtis Wilson __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
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blade, fixed blade, folding knife, forge, forging, hunting knife, knife, knife making, knives, switchblade |
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