|
|
Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Filling gaps between scales and bolsters?
What's the best way to fill this in?
I was thinking about mixing some sawdust with epoxy, removing the scale and pasting a thin layer on the edge against the bolster. After it dries sanding it flat at a new angle until it's flush. Other ideas? Last edited by Neil McCauley; 08-18-2016 at 12:41 AM. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
go ahead and trim the handles down to nearly finish, then mix the sawdust as mentioned, but don't wait till it dries. put handle back on and scrape off excess. when it cures you can finish sanding and finishing.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
That would bind it to the bolster/liner though, right? Trying to keep the scales removable.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I can't think of a way to "fill" that gap with anything that won't "stick" to the bolster(s), that won't look terrible. The way I would do it is to hand sand the angles on the front of the scales, using a granite block (or you can use a piece of glass) with a sheet of sandpaper on it..... take a stroke of two, trying to hold the scale at the correct angle, and they test fit it....keep doing this, and test fitting until you get the best fit you can. AFTER that is done, then drill the screw/attachment holes in the scales.
It looks like you already drilled holes, so doing as I am recommending would require starting over with new scales. I suspect you're thinking...... "I don't want to have to start over on the scales.".... but keep in mind, when it comes to knifemaking, you can have "good" or you can have "easy".....but rarely can you have both. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
if you have the material.... make a new one.
I do as ed mentioned... fit handle first, then drill holes. guess you can count this as a learning experience. if you still want to go the rout of epoxy fill....... wipe a layer of silicone grease on the bolster/liner. then after it sets, hand sand to clean up. other option.... add spacer material. http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/569.htm |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Eh, no way I am starting over. It's a pretty minor thing.
I tested the epoxy/sawdust method using a thin layer of vaseline on the bolster and liner and it protected them from the epoxy. Looks like I will do that. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
glad you found a useable solution.
sometimes "a pretty minor thing" will mean starting over :-/ |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
When a cover up scenario rears its ugly head be it simple or complex I would go the Ed route and do it again......but that's just me ,
as a buyer I wouldn't want to receive a patch job , as a maker I wouldn't sell one....again that's just me and just my opinion, completely different if it's for your own pocket or belt but same principle would apply here for me.... __________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
How about trimming the handles back and attaching a suitable spacer material in there this will give you the chance to fix that gap and add a bit of contrast to boot then it wasn't a mistake you meant it
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Just make sure you use quality epoxy and measure more than once before you mark then stay on that mark. Nobody said knife making is easy. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
There's good and then there's good enough. If you were keeping the knife for yourself you can settle for good enough. If you intend to sell it good is minimum quality. Remember, it's your reputation here.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Super easy fix. I'll get a slightly shifted scale or bolster when screwed down. I'm not about to toss it or remake either handle material unless it is REALLY BAD. Handle scales IME don't do well with epoxy blends because they show.
Grind the bolster from the frame/bottom side down. The reduction in height pulls the dovetail down proportional to the gap without altering your pivot or mounting hole locations. Now if there is significant gap then the amount taken off will not line up so you'll have to adjust the other bolster or handle scale to match. __________________ Mike Last edited by M&J; 12-12-2016 at 10:57 PM. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
A question relating to the subject. If you glue and rivet your scales is there a considerable loss of durability if you would take on the habit of always mixing your glue with a bit of sawdust?
|
Tags |
angle, apply, back, blade, block, bolster, bolsters, drill, easy, edge, epoxy, flat, hand, handle, handles, knifemaking, make, material, pocket, sand, sanding, scale, scales, screw, simple |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Old school 10.25 inch fighter ebony scales, steel bolsters | Kenhills | Knives For Sale - Custom | 4 | 10-28-2013 07:17 AM |
Installing spacers between bolsters and scales | Jim T | The Newbies Arena | 4 | 06-11-2011 08:22 AM |
kinfe kit- gaps between guard and scales | cwiehle0 | The Newbies Arena | 4 | 10-19-2009 04:17 PM |
void between the bolsters and scales | skippydm | The Newbies Arena | 11 | 11-30-2007 04:01 PM |