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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel.

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  #16  
Old 03-25-2006, 03:25 AM
Ssj2 Ssj2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon cutlery
i would go to about 1/4 on the spine or at its thickest 3/16 could work but most of the swords i have seen that felt real good where thicker than 3/16 at the guard

I would have to agree with man from Dragon Cuttlery. Almost any Katana I've seen or really any sword with a blade over 22inchs I would say is 1/4 of an inch thick at the spine. You could do a distal tapor down to 3/16 as you approach the end.


That reminds just how much of a distal tapor did you use on making my Sword Dan? I don't think it's fully down to 3/16 at the end but then again I can't tell for sure unless I take to my college and mesure it in the shop with there instruments.
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2006, 12:00 PM
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McAhron McAhron is offline
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I too would go 1/4'.I would not use 1095 for this.You have to quench 1095 very very quickly.You would need a very large quench tank holding more than 5 gallons of oil.It can be done and many have done it successfully but 1065 or 1050 would be much more forgiving and greatly increase your chances of succuss.Just my opinion.Also the blade will reverse curve(point down) in oil with clay so you will need to put slightly more curve in it before heat treat than you wish to end with.


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  #18  
Old 03-26-2006, 12:19 AM
Ssj2 Ssj2 is offline
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Does any one here have any exprience differentially heat treating stainless or semi stainless steels? I know I read some where that a2 has been sucessfully heat treated with diferent rc values at the spine and edge and I could have sworn I read somewhere where Jerry Hossom has made a differentially heat treated sword from ats 34. Just wondering how you would go about with this? Can it be done in the same manner as carbon steel IE clay backing or is there some other special way these air hardening steels have to be heat treaded to get the different rc values on spine and edge?
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2006, 04:04 AM
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The best way since it's air hardening would be to differentially temper .Using a torch to temper back the spine.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2006, 10:09 AM
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Ice Tigre Ice Tigre is offline
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Well, in some further research of traditional katanas, it looks like 1/4" is it. And since I can't find any precision ground-anealed 1095 thicker than 3/16", I'll be looking at some other steels in the 10xx range. I'll be starting another thread for this project in the next couple days, in the outpost, probably(didn't mean to highjack this one). Thanks McAhron! I didn't know that it would curve down like that. Umm.... will shorter blades do that, like say 10" ?

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  #21  
Old 03-26-2006, 11:27 AM
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McAhron McAhron is offline
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Yep 10' too.


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  #22  
Old 03-26-2006, 02:38 PM
Ssj2 Ssj2 is offline
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Try 1086 Gary it gets almost as hard as 1095 and certainly as hard as you need for a sword but without the brittle problems 1095 sometimes suffers from.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2006, 08:48 PM
lhytrek lhytrek is offline
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If it is not curved is it a true Katana?

Where can you get a piece of 3V this long heat treated?

Where is the best information on how the handles etc are made? I can do the blade but don't have the knowledge for the handles and sheath.

Buy yourself a goat and go into the country and see if you can cut it in half with one swing. That's how the Japanese used to do it, of course it was done with a prisoner.

I have held a real Japanese sword in my hands, not a fancy one, but one used by a mid level officer. They were at least 1/4 inch thick at the handle and tapered to the point.
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