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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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Old 01-19-2008, 11:05 AM
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Gary Mulkey Gary Mulkey is offline
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Water Quench Steel?

Ed,

Previously we discussed water quench vs. oil quench for the purpose of hamons. I have been searching for a source for some 1060 for this purpose without any luck so far. 1050 & 1070 seem to be readily available but not the 1060 bars. Have you used any of these steels with success? I would like to do some water quenched clay coating but haven't tried using these lower carbon steels. What would you suggest.

Gary
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:35 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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I pretty sure that Pacific Steel in Portland carries 1065. Timken uses 1060 but I don't know if they sell small amounts though.

Last edited by B.Finnigan; 01-19-2008 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:00 PM
Michael E. Mill
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Gary if you are interested Ray has some 1050 or 1052. I don't know if it is flat bar or round stock. Mike
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:53 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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The last I looked, Kelly Cupples carried 1065. Go to www.elliscustomknifeworks.com and check out the link for forging steel. That links to Cupples.

Doug Lester


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Old 02-16-2008, 01:13 PM
Gene Martin Gene Martin is offline
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Pacific Steel carries 1085 in 1/4x 1 1/2' bars. It works well for clay coating blades. If you are going to stock remove the blade, I'd suggest thermal cycling the blade first. Normalize, then anneal, then clay coat and quench. You'll save some grief that way.

Gene
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Old 02-16-2008, 02:11 PM
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I am in the process of doing a clay coated blade in 1095 with a fast quench (parafin base) oil that I got from Great Lakes Oil. We'll see how the hamon turns out. I have some 1060 on order as well.

Gary
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:02 PM
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I use 1080 for water quinch,have ad pretty good results.


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Old 03-01-2008, 03:17 PM
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Well, I'm still experimenting. I bought some 1053 with which I have been playing. The first time with the blade I left the edge around .140" thick and water quenched. I got around 65-66 Hc with no cracks but after grinding to a finish edge the hamon that I wanted wasn't there. I then H/T it again with no edge cracks but two transitional cracks (at the hamon).

Guess I'll keep playing for the right combination. I enjoy the learning curve but it's always tough to throw that many hours of work in the trash.

Gary
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:14 PM
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I did one today. 1080, clay quinch in water.The Hamon only came up about 1/4". So I redid it with an oil edge quinch. The weirdest thing one side looked good the other had a small hamon then about 3/8 inch wide strip thet followed the hamon where the grain looked like wood then back smooth.So I annealed and will try again tomorrow.
I have found that useing disstilled water at 80 deg F. and as close to critical as possible on blade temp has reduced cracking greatly.


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