Where can I find a tool for scribing lines on the edge of a blade?

[ARCustomKnives]

Hey guys,

I'm just wondering what you guys use for scribing center lines on your blade edges before you grind them?

I know in Loveless's book on how to make knives, he mentions some 100+ dollar depth gauge or something...

I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative in the 10-20 dollar range

Thanks,

-Drew

[WBE]

Go to wickellerbe.com look under standard knives, click on picture for details. You can make one these yourself. Just takes a little time.

[Frankallen]

This is what I use,exact same ones!! Works Great!!

Frank

http://cgi.ebay.com/ORANGE-6-DIAL-CALIPER-STAINLESS-STEEL-0-001-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ350142295428QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item350142295428&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

[David Broadwell]

I use a set of hermaphrodite calipers. Mine have a spring joint with a screw adjustment. A quick google search netted several entries. This one http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=170612 shows a pretty cheap firm joint model. Here's an older one from Union Tool: http://www.goantiques.com/detail,uni...h,1017768.html I found a couple of Starrett brand hermaphrodite calipers for $41-45. Starrett tools are great, but you can beat their prices with other brands and not lose any quality. I believe that a 4" caliper would be more than adequate for what you need, but 6" seems to be more popular.

Other names for these calipers include "oddleg", "oddleg jenny" or just "jennies". I once worked with a machinist from India who called them "leg and pin" calipers. Just sounded so British to me!

Many makers use precision height gages and granite surface blocks, which is probably what you saw in the Loveless book. They are nice, but I have other things to spend that much money on when a few bucks for the calipers works just fine.

David

[Ray Rogers]

The edge marker I have used comes from Sheffield Supply, their part # EDM1, and costs $14.50 It's a simple little block of brass with a rod stuck through it and a carbide tip in the end of the rod. I use a set of automotive feeler gauges to set the scribe to the desired position for whatever blade thickness I want to mark.

You should get a set of catalogs from all of the major knife supply houses. That's the best and fastest way I know of to see the choices and compare prices when you have a question like this one. Works better than websites for me ....

[DaveRuhlig]

I have an option in the $0 range (I assume you already have drill bits). I use a drill bit of the same thickness as the barstock. Just use a marker on the edge of the blank. Lay the blank and the bit on something FLAT. Pull the blade accross the bit keeping it flat on the surface. Flip it over and repeat. You should have one center line. This method is not as good as the tools mentioned above by any means, but the price is right.
-Dave

[pipecrafter]

I use the same method, Dave. I usually end up with two scribed lines equidistant from the edges, and I use that as a guide for my grind line to keep from getting too thin prior to heat treat. So far so good, and you can't beat the price. I forget where I learned this trick - one of Wayne Goddards books maybe.

[dbalfa]

Hardened calipers. You can pick up a machinist guide/cheat sheat from Lowe's or Grizzly for a frew bucks. A good set of calipers can be had for $20 or so. You will find these very useful for this job as well as several others like laying out pin holes etc. I usually alow a few thousanths between two center lines to grind to. This is easily adjusted with calipers. I.E. 1/8" stock = .125 so set the calipers for .0625 for the exact center or close up to .050 for a little space.
Also, Grizzly has a heigth gauge for around $40.

[huntforlife]

I use verneer calipers. I check the overall, blacken the edge, set the caliper to half width, then just scribe a light line using the caliper. Not sure if its the right way, but it works. Not a deep scribe, but very visible over an edge thats been blacked out with a marker.

[Suicycle]

I generally use taps that I have ground a really sharp point on. Usually a 10-32 is what I use. Sometimes I will shim it up on a piece of plastic or paper. I use it to help center a blade after I forge it. Grind to the lines leaving enough for heat treat and the rest is ground by eye after HT. I sometimes scribe the spine too, it helps keeping the point centered. Just remember to move the knife, not whatever you grind a point on. A piece of marble tile or granite from Lowes is a great flat surface to work off of.

[DaveRuhlig]

Originally Posted by pipecrafter

I use the same method, Dave. I usually end up with two scribed lines equidistant from the edges, and I use that as a guide for my grind line to keep from getting too thin prior to heat treat.

I get the same thing sometimes depending on the bit I use. That's why I always flip it and do both sides. Sometimes one line, sometimes two, but either way you know where the middle is. I tried using calipers and the jig mentioned, but ended up going back to the good old drill bit.
-Dave

[Bill Vining]

or you can get them here if your interested.
http://bkgtools.medawebs.com

[DaveRuhlig]

Originally Posted by Bill Vining

or you can get them here if your interested.
http://bkgtools.medawebs.com

Pretty slick Bill! Definitely puts my drill bit to shame. I know I told you before, but those cigar cutters on you site are amazing.
-Dave

[Crex]

Not trying to take away from Bill's business (great looking tools Bill!), but come on guys!!!
You got a place and tools for making knives, most of exceptional quality and beauty. If you can't make a simple tool like that, how the heck do you make a knife in the first place?

Bill, you could get your's down to "0" instead of 1/32, if you grind your carbide scribe point off center or you can mill a small channel the size of the scribe in your flat surface so that it can be lowered to "0" with the surface. Done it both ways, channel seems easier to do. I use aluminum block for my flat surface/table part of the scribe. Great little tools that are very handy for alot of marking duties.

[Bill Vining]

Dave,
Thanks for the compliments on the cigars cutters. Much appreciated.


Crex,
I agree with you completely on all points. Many knife makers will make their own scribe for close to nothing and many have already done so. It's a handy tool to have. I am offering my tools as a convenience for those makers who would prefer not to make their own.

Thanks,

Bill