|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
does anyone know where I can find...
O-6 or L-7 steel? I've got the Admiral Steel catalog and they only offer O-1 and L-6. Any information on heat treating O-6 or L-7 would be appreciated, too. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Okay-no response from the first question. Maybe a second. Can someone point me in the right direction in regard to the proper heat treatment of L-6? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
O6 steel
Joe, I beleive Carpenter tool steel in Portland Oregon carrys O6 and perhaps L-6. They have a web site. Perhaps Pacific metals also carries it. Jim |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Re: O6 steel
Also, try a local machine shop/metal fabrication shop in your town. They have many catalogs where they can get more exotic metals. The knife steel sellers usually only carry the most comonly bought steels. The less common steels are not cheap, but available, and many times a machine shop will order it for you reasonably. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Joe: L6,L7 steel - Quench from 1450 to 1550 F in water or brine. Doesn't really need to be drawn. L7 will give slightly more hardness. L6 is the band or circular saw blade steel used in most lumber mills and downright hard to find in any other form. Hardens in oil to about RC 57 and takes a fine edge for most cutting, particularly where the edge might be steeled back into shape. Outstanding where flexibility is needed but rusts easily, like virtually all of the simple carbon steels. L7 is the same stuff with a little more carbon. The previous two paragraphs I took from a website somewhere called "Blades N Stuff". I don't want to take the credit for this information. Just thought I'd pass it along. Also I've been making knives for years out of L7 (I think) - masonry saw blades. I heat treat my blades with a torch and watch the color go through several different stages of colors until I get a straw one - always heating the back side or spine of the blade. After reaching this color I roll the edge (starting from true North to South) in a shallow pan of transmission fluid. A blacksmith from N. Carolina told me this. Anyway, the system works for me producing a tough cutting edge with a very flexible blade at the same time. I hope this will help. Maybe someone else can give you better info. Good luck....Russ |
Tags |
blade, forging, knife, knives |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
(View-All) Members who have read this thread : 1 | |
warren |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|