|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Quick question on pyroceram platen.
I just deleted my page long write up so I will paraphrase. I got a 9" pyroceram platen for grizz. I took the graphite stick-on platen off of the grizz.
My metal platen backing is bent on on the ends. 9" of it are supposed to be flat but when they bent the ends they didnt back it with something solid so it bent the middle a small amount. There is 4" in the middle that is dead flat though. I would like to know what the best gap filling adhesive would be to use for this application. I was thinking maybe red rtv? I wanted to use tape but that wouldnt work unless it was completely flat. Also I plan to use micarta to make a shelf for the glass. I plan to use countersink bolts to attach it to the bent part of my metal platen backing. Does this sound acceptable? Here are pics. If they dont explain I will draw a picture. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
do you have a way to grind/file/sand it flat?
also I think welding on a piece of steel would be easier, and likely work better than micarta. where did you get the pyroceram platen? I need to upgrade my grinder soon. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
OK Kyle, the micarta is a good idea. Leave that as is, but remove before doing any of the following.
I am a sheetmetal mechanic and tig welder-fitter. What to do about the bow on the ends is simply clamp them in a vise square and right at the bow and take a rubber mallet and hit them until you get a flat surface. That is what I would do, I'm an expert at moving metal to where I want it. If you do not have the confidence to straighten the platen out then simply use some high temp JB Weld and mix some non-wood grinding dust (fine) in with it and tape the sides and fill the area from the ceramic to the platen. Do one side at a time, wait until it sets and do the other side. Use a thin piece of plastic or metal to shove the JB Weld down in there. The reason for the grinding dust mixed in is so when the JB Weld Hardens it doesn't shrink much and pull on the ceramic plate which I am sure doesn't have much flexibility. Any questions? I presume you are screwing the micarta on? Last edited by jimmontg; 01-23-2017 at 11:15 PM. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
What are you doing up so late Damon?
500th post, a milestone. Someone should give me a HT oven. The bow is from welding the round part onto the middle of the part. It is not from the small bends on the ends. FYI That is what is causing the bow. Last edited by jimmontg; 01-23-2017 at 11:25 PM. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I don't have jims experience.
but beating a 1/4 x 2" plate with a rubber mallet doesn't sound too effective. grind it flat or fill it in with glue.... (jb weld, or whatever works) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Well a press would be better,, but whacking it with a good heavy plastic hammer will straighten it out. It is just another reason I do not like Grizzlies. That platen should have been checked and straightened, take all of two minutes after the weld.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Jim, im not sure I would be comfortable smacking it with a mallet. by non wood dust, I have micarta dust and metal dust laying around. would either of these work? |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I used JB weld on it today and didnt end up using a filler in it. It took almost 3/4 or both tubes but seemed to work well. It is now taped in place and sitting out to dry.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Kyle I suggested non-wood when I should have said non-flammable, but it doesn't matter now. The JB Weld doesn't shrink much if at all, but you definitely want to use high temperature type as the platen can get pretty warm, with the pyroceramic it will run cooler than against metal for certain though.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I used the normal 2 part JB Weld. It claims it will withstand 500 Degrees constant and 600 Degrees for 10 minutes. Hopefully this will be sufficient
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Shouldn't hit 500 degrees, I just suggested the high temp stuff for insurance.
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
ok, Thanks Jim. I tested it briefly tonight and did the bevel on a knife that I really messed up the HT on. its a completely different animal now and I will have to get used to grinding on something flat. I think I had learned all of the specialized movements to get a somewhat flat bevel on the graphite platen with all of its peaks and valleys. its pretty crazy to see so many sparks coming off of the belt in a line as opposed to a small line of them like before. Im loving it!
|
Tags |
adhesive, bee, degrees, dust, file, flat, glue, grind, grinder, grinding, hammer, hidden, make, metal, micarta, plastic, press, sand, small, steel, surface, vise, weld, welding, wood |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Crack in pyroceram platen | alexkuzn | The Newbies Arena | 2 | 08-21-2006 10:21 AM |
pyroceram platen question | alexkuzn | The Newbies Arena | 9 | 10-19-2005 06:33 PM |
Pyroceram platen liners F/S | SPryor | General ::: Items and Bargains | 5 | 08-06-2004 03:48 PM |
pyroceram platen | oldwolf | The Supply Center | 4 | 04-03-2004 12:08 AM |
Pyroceram platen liners | Knifemaker01 | General ::: Items and Bargains | 12 | 01-19-2003 12:04 PM |