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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 08-30-2013, 04:13 PM
Jacktheknife Jacktheknife is offline
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Nate,


Rodger that.


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  #17  
Old 08-30-2013, 04:45 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Might not help much with plunge cuts but there is a rubber sanding block that I use that has slots in it with little nails that hold the sandpaper. You tear a sheet of paper into three or four strips, stick one end of a strip in one slot, fold it around the block and stick the other end of the strip in the other slot, done deal. Holds better than glue but releases easily. These are hard rubber sanding blocks, should be available most any hardwares store that sells sandpaper ...


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  #18  
Old 08-30-2013, 10:35 PM
Jacktheknife Jacktheknife is offline
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Ray,


Thanks man, I was just digging around in my ammo boxes of knife making stuff today and found a can of spray adhesive! Went on to glue all the 240 grit I had to the {new and improved} hard wood sanding blocks. I'll ask at the hardware store about an automatic sandpaper holding block {good idea} but Master blade smith Dan who moved off used to use spray adhesive to attach sand paper to long metal blocks to sand his swords. He sanded all day long saying it's impossible to mess them up by hand sanding.
I guess Claymore Swords are just 'longer' than 5" skinners.

Oh! and 'I cut me' a new billet of annealed steel today and want to try to get the plunge cut going before hardening.
A notch? Or a rudimentary plunge cut?
How much can I do before hardening?


Knife...
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  #19  
Old 08-31-2013, 08:35 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I do all my grinding after the heat treat is completely finished. That way, I don't have much worry about warping and any failure that might happen during heat treating (like dropping a hot blade) won't make me lose much because all I've done so far is profile the blade.

So, you can grind as much or as little as you want to before HT. Most guys grind the primary bevel down to where the edge would be about as thick as a dime. Any thinner than that and the edge could warp. Any sharp corners cut into the steel - like a notch indicating the location of the plunge cut - can cause a crack so no notches. I would say either don't do any grinding at all or just go ahead and do the primary bevel up to about 220 grit. By the way, I don't recall you ever mentioned any troubles with warping but one of the things that cam cause a blade to warp is uneven grinding of the bevels. That's another reason I wait to grind until the HT is completely finished. If you chose to try that you will need to use fresh ceramic belts to do the grinding but is really isn't any more difficult than grinding when the steel is soft....


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  #20  
Old 08-31-2013, 10:26 AM
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racjarrett88 racjarrett88 is offline
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grinding after heat treat is actually easier cant mess it up as easy when it is hard just have make sure you keep it cool


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  #21  
Old 09-02-2013, 01:47 PM
Jacktheknife Jacktheknife is offline
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Ray,


I drill holes in blades before heat treating.
Whats the difference between a 'hole' or 'half hole', or notch down by the ricasso?
{To make the plunge cut visible from both sides}


Thank you


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  #22  
Old 09-02-2013, 02:27 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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A hole is round (no corners). A notch could have a half round profile (no corners) or it could be cut like an inverted V (very sharp corner). As long as there is no sharp corners you're OK ...


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