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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#91
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I've been able to put a few hours into my knife the last few days and it's nearly finished.
I have hand sanded the blades, first with 220 grit to remove all the grinding marks, then with 400 grit for a satin finish. I use my jeweler's bench pin to hold the blade as shown, water as a lubricant, and the wet or dry carbide body and fender paper wrapped around the stick as shown. You didn't know I make gold and silver jewelry, didja? Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-29-2011 at 07:48 PM. |
#92
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Here are all the parts. I've assembled the knife temporarily and ground it to a 220 grit finish on the belt grinder, then dis-assembled it again.
I decided to jewel the inside of the liners. I used a 1/4" hardwood dowel held in the drill chuck, smeared the liners with valve grinding compound, and brought the dowel down agaist the liner as I moved the liner. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-29-2011 at 07:52 PM. |
#93
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I've cut new 3/32" pins out of 416 steel and assembled the knife again permanently. I ground the pins to length after assembly so that I had one pin diameter (3/32") sticking out on each side of the knife.
The excess length allows me to peen the pins over and fill up the tops of the pin holes. Remember, the tops were drilled very carefully to one drill size larger that the pin holes. After peening all the pins I took the assembled knife to the belt grinder and carefully ground each pin down to flush with its bolster. I had to peen, grind, peen again lightly several times until the pins matched the bolsters. The last peening was done with the ball end of the hammer to blend the metals of the bolsters in with the pins. |
#94
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So here's what I have now.
I need to work on the pins a little more, and hand sand the scales to remove the grinding marks. Did I tell you these stag scales were sealed by soaking in Nelsonite overnight? When they are finished and buffed they'll have a high luster. |
#95
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Don,
I have not made a slipjoint, but hope to some day soon give it a try. I have a couple of questions that I hope you will help me with. I understand the peening of the handle material pins on the inside of the liners, but do you peen the handle side also, or do you depend on epoxy and the through pins to hold the stag in place? I have been looking at "Spot Welders" on the net. Do you think that one of those (I'm sure China Imports) 110 volt models that can be purchased for between $125 - $200 would work? Very interesting thread. Thanks, Robert |
#96
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Quote:
I put a drop of super glue on each scale pin when the knife is ready for the final sanding by hand. I've never had luck using epoxy on a slipjoint. When it cures it swells. I bought the 110v spot welder I have from Harbor Freight when it was on sale 50% off. They have both 110v and 220v models. If I'd had a choice I'd have bought the 220v model, but the 110v model I have does a good job. |
#97
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Thanks Don. I will have to check out the Harbor Freight 220 model.
I'll be keeping up with this very informative thread. Thanks again, Robert |
#98
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My welder is rated at 1/8" of thickness, but I exceed that a little.
The 220v model has a higher rating. |
#99
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Don, will that spot welder work on nickel silver bolsters and liners?
Jeff |
#100
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As far as I know it will if both materials are the same. Notice I said "as far as I know". I've never tried it.
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#101
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And now, the finished knife! Man, it's been a struggle doing this and coping with surgery on my belly!!
When the sanding and polishing were done I coated the whole thing with paste wax and buffed it in. |
#102
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I showed you mine. Where's yours?
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#103
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This is about as far as I got on this one. A few more days and I will be able to get going again.
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#104
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That's a good start. Keep it up.
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#105
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Tags |
art, blade, brass, fixed blade, folder, heat treat, hunting knife, kit, knife, knife making, knives, pins, post, press, satin finish, scales, supplies, supply, tang, teach |
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