Removing forum profile & editing member profile

[J.Arthur Loose]

Well... I had quite the fiasco logging in to the new site... I had changed my e-mail address and this threw things off. Set the old one back up, logged in and then changed the e-mail addy.

I'd like to get rid of the other profile I started because I thought this one was no good though: it is J.A.Loose. How do I delete a forum profile?

Only other question is how to edit the member profile (not the forum profile,) with an outdated picture & blurb... ?

[Chuck Burrows]

Hey Jon - easy answer is to contact Admin - That's how I changed my member profile and image and it's the only way hat I can think of to remove a profile.

BTW - saw where you're doing some woodwork to pad the bank account and you mentioned using oil - have you tried this stuff - http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/
Sounds really good.
Also are you doing any maple? If so I've got some great ways to get the grain to "pop" (you may know about them of course.....)

[KNAdmin]

Jon,

I removed the profile for you. It should now be gone.

Submit member profile updates with head shots and sample images (2) (640x480) to admin@knifenetwork.com

Alex

[J.Arthur Loose]

Thanks guys-

Chuck, I swear by that tried & true stuff; we use it almost exclusively. I've been using it on wooden handles from the start. what do you do for the grain?

Alex, thanks a bunch. Also a private e-mail is being sent.

[Chuck Burrows]

Howdy Jon -
For grain I use an old muzzle loading rifle makers reagent - it's based on the old formulas for aqua fortis. Technically aqua fortis is nothing more than nitric acid, but the term has been and is also used for a mix of nitric acid and pure iron - a dangerous concoction to make, but one that can be readily purchased since Fe + HNO3 = Ferric Nitrate. Either way after finishing - I take maple to 600 grit and then burnish with either a piece of antler or with a coarse cloth, burnishing really makes a difference - then take the Ferric Nitrate (you can also mix it with muriatic which will make the whole thing "faster" working) and soak 2 or three coats into it. Once dry heat it with a heat gun of over hot coals or - the heat gun works best for control. The Ferric Nitrate is actually a chemical reagent and reacts with the tannin and other sugars when heated. You need to "kill" the acid so soak down with soda water or a baking soda/water mix. The water will raise the grain so cut it back down with sharp 600 grit or 4/0 steel wool, Follow up with burnishing and then finish with oil.

here are a couple of examples:

Note the face of the piece on the left - this face was not "killed" with soda and you can see how the tannin turned very dark after being out in the sun for two weeks.

Also take a look at Alan L's pictures in the gallery - he uses a similar method and that knife handle is outstanding - the hawk ain't bad either .

I've been doing a lot of research recently on the subject of 18th/19th century wood finishes and I am going to give a mix of nitre(aka salt petre aka Potassium Nitrate) and iron a try - Nitre is the term often used in the old recipes for "aqua fortis" wood finish and I have been wondering if nitre (a major component of black powder and easily found on any farmstead with horses) wasn't the Nitrate source for the finishes rather than nitric acid which in fact can be made from nitre.

PS Thans for the info on the Tried and True oil - I've been wanting to try it but my Scot's blood was kicking up a fit since I didn't have a clue as to it's quality!
Also if you're interested I've got some links on early wood finishes.