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The BEST heat treat? You will need to use a HT oven, or salt system. It needs to be normalized first, then it needs to soak at about 1475? minimum, to around 1500?, for five minutes, then quench in Parks #50 oil. heated to 130?/135?. Temper from 425? to 475? , depending on how hard you want it, two hours, twice. For springs, temper from 650? to 675?.
1095 is not beginner friendly. To be at it's best, you have a window of .8 of one second to drop the heat from 1500? to under 900? in the quench. A strong brine will do this, but the risk of cracking is very present. Parks #50 will do the job in about 1.2 seconds, which is close enough to still get a good quench for blades or springs.
What you are dealing with is that if quenched to slow, the steel will form hard pearlite, instead of martensite, which when file tested will mimic good martensite. Hard pearlite does not hold an edge, and is weak in structure, and a file cannot tell the difference. That said, some users of 1095 have worked out ways of water, or brine quenching that seems to work pretty good, but the risks of cracking are always there. The Parks #50 oil is the safest way to go, without a lot of experimentation, and sending out samples for metallurgical testing.
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09-15-2009, 05:45 PM
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