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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #46  
Old 02-06-2014, 08:16 AM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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Ray
I may just join in to this one if you will have me. One thing that has always made me wary of trying to make kitchen knives is trying to seal the joint from blade to bolster or handle so that food cannot get into that crack. I have worked in more than my share of kitchens and as such am fanatic about cleanliness. It seems to me that where a bolster or handle attaches to a blade is simply an area highly prone to getting a bacteria buildup. The reason I like integral knives. Do you have any suggestions for how to treat this area. Any objection to doing a hidden tang knife for this.
Thanks
Steve


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  #47  
Old 02-06-2014, 09:34 AM
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Steve,

Of course we'll have you! Everybody is welcome to participate. The chance of getting one of your knives (keep it simple) will probably pull in a few other entrants too.

I completely agree about cleanliness and kitchen knives. As I'm sure you know, many high end kitchen knives are of integral design and avoid the issue of sealing the ferrule to the blade. For the few of us who can solder guards the solder provides all the seal that is needed. The rest of us use a close fit to the tang and seal with JB Weld. The JB weld works very well and is quick and easy to use.

You probably already know how to apply JB Weld but for the others reading this I'll spell it out because most of the KITH entries will be from new makers and we all want those guards, ferrules, and bolsters sealed up tight on a kitchen knife. To start, mix the JB according to their directions. Then put a very thick bead of JB all the way around your tang just behind the place where the guard will sit so that as the guard is pushed onto the tang the JB gets run over and pulled inside the guard's slot. This should leave a thin smear of JB on the tang behind the guard and a fat bead of JB piled up in front of the guard. The bead of JB in front of the guard should be continuous with no breaks all the way around the tang. Put the handle on to hold the guard in place while the JB sets - you can do this with a temporary attachment or with a permanent attachment according to your preference. DO NOT attempt to remove the excess JB at this time. Wait exactly 10 minutes from the time you mixed the JB to remove the excess (use a clock, get it right). Try to remove the excess too soon and you will pull the JB out of the seam you are trying to fill, wait too long and it won't come off cleanly. Use damp, not wet, paper towels to remove the JB after 10 minutes. It should smear a little but it will clean right off and leave a filled seam for the guard much like a soldered seam.

As for hidden tangs, pretty much every kitchen knife I make is a hidden stub tang in a stabilized wood or synthetic handle. To me, that's the cleanest seam-free handle design you can get short of molding a handle directly onto the tang. So, no objection at all. In fact, there are no limits on design for this KITH, any style is acceptable.


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  #48  
Old 02-06-2014, 11:55 AM
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Hello Steve,

I would love personally love to extend my welcome to you as well your craftsmanship is excellent.

Also should you wish to solder your bolsters to your knife I am willing to send you a very nice 5% SILVER SOLIDER,.050 X 1/8, EXCEL NEW OLD STOCK silver rod with the directions for it as it is what I have used on mine and it has turned out very well . I can send you a rod in the post for yours if you want to try it ? I am about finished with mine and Mr. Ray will soon have it in the KITH photo album jacket .

Best Regards & Blessings


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  #49  
Old 02-06-2014, 03:11 PM
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Woo hoo


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  #50  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:38 PM
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here is the starting point.
steve
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  #51  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:52 PM
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lookin' good ...


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  #52  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:30 PM
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I should have said. It is 440C and 3/32 thick. I will be heat treating it exactly as you see it and grinding the blade after heat treat. I am not sure if I should go with a hollow grind or a flat grind. Still thinking on that. I was thinking of going with ironwood for the handle but I am not sure if I would be better off using a stabilized wood. Or possibly trying to stabilize the ironwood. Might not be necessary but for a kitchen knife might make sense. What do you folks think?
Steve


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  #53  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:10 PM
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I'd go with flat grind as hollow grinds tend to have significant 'suction' with wet foods like tomatoes. I don't recall ever seeing any high quality hollow ground kitchen blades larger than a steak knife that were popular with the pros.

Ironwood is usually safe but I did do one once that developed a white mold. Eventually, we discovered that if the chef oiled the ironwood regularly the mold wouldn't form but that was the last time I used an unstabilized wood on a kitchen knife....


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  #54  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:57 PM
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Never had any trouble with unstabilized ironwood/mopani/mulga/cocobolo/blackwood handles.

I love notched hidden tangs but man they are a pain to replace.

Last edited by Midwinter; 02-09-2014 at 09:53 AM. Reason: forgot the "un"
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  #55  
Old 02-09-2014, 09:12 AM
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Well here are the next steps. The blade has been ground. I used an 80 grit blaze belt to start then a 220 grit norton alligator belt, then an engineered 400 then finished it off with a scotchbrite belt. The finish is okay not great but I think it works well for a kitchen knife. The edge is almost down to razor thickness so we will have to see how the edge turns out. The guard/bolsters were peened in then soldered. The soldering actually worked fairly well which is somewhat of a surprise. The handle slabs are in the process of being stabilized. I had some stabilized spalted maple but I always restabilize anything I use mostly because I can and it certainly can't hurt. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask. Thats it for this weekend, family duties time.
Thanks
Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg kith-2.jpg (103.4 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg kith-3.jpg (124.0 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg kith-4.jpg (156.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg kith-5.jpg (114.2 KB, 49 views)


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  #56  
Old 02-09-2014, 11:54 AM
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Stephen,

Thanks for posting the pics! I am inspired to get going on the kitchen knife.

Dan
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  #57  
Old 02-10-2014, 08:50 PM
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A couple of questions. How long do you make the part of the tang that is within the handle? And how do you make the slot that the tang portion fits into? My tang piece is 3/32 thich by 3/8 wide and I am stumped on how to make the hole that it fits into.
Thanks
Steve


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  #58  
Old 02-11-2014, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVanderkolff View Post
Ray
A couple of questions. How long do you make the part of the tang that is within the handle? And how do you make the slot that the tang portion fits into? My tang piece is 3/32 thich by 3/8 wide and I am stumped on how to make the hole that it fits into.
Thanks
Steve
Loving the WIP on your knife. I'm not Ray, but how I would do it is to use a long, 1/8" drill bit to drill the hole to the needed depth, then a handle broach to widen the hole to 3/8"... a modified sawsall blade will work in a pinch for a makeshift broach.


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  #59  
Old 02-11-2014, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHEzell View Post
Loving the WIP on your knife. I'm not Ray, but how I would do it is to use a long, 1/8" drill bit to drill the hole to the needed depth, then a handle broach to widen the hole to 3/8"... a modified sawsall blade will work in a pinch for a makeshift broach.
I make the slot in the handle just slightly longer than the length of the hidden tang.

For hogging out the handle material for the hidden tang: USA Knifemaker Supply sells extra long drill bits for this purpose. You can also get some extra long single end mills for future larger hidden tangs (wider than 1/8"). I found some relatively cheap on Ebay. This makes it much easier to hog out some deep material. Always seems like the last 1/4" of material doesn't seem to want to come out. And then you can get the broaches which work great but are pricy. I have seen them at http://w.ivenue.com/riversidemachine...tures.html?p=2 and http://usaknifemaker.com/catalogsear...cat=0&q=broach and you can make your own if you are good!

Welcome to the Ray's KITH and you just raised the bar! Better start on my Santoku!

Tony Z
Kansas City, MO


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Last edited by Fulmaduro; 02-11-2014 at 07:38 AM.
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  #60  
Old 02-11-2014, 09:03 AM
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I also use 3/32" stock for most of my kitchen knives. After allowing for the ferrule or any spacer I might be using there is a 2" stub of tang left to go into the handle, my tangs are 1/2" wide at the blade and taper to 3/8" at the end. To slot the handle, I first drill 3 1/8" holes in the handle about 2 1/4" deep. That leaves a web of wood to remove. A Roto-Zip blade chucked into my Foredom style handpiece (a Dremel would work as well) makes short work of that web. It literally takes me less than 15 minutes to drill the handle and remove the web, often much less. Very easy.

I fill the handle with AcraGlas and pin it with a single pin using the method described in this little tutorial:
http://www.rayrogers.com/stubtang.htm

The result is a very solid one piece handle that maximizes the display of any fancy handle materials while minimizing any place for crud to accumulate....


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