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  #241  
Old 09-11-2005, 07:34 AM
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aiiifish aiiifish is offline
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Just wanted to say thanks for the time and effort you guys put into this. I appriciate you helping me to make a better and stronger product!


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  #242  
Old 09-12-2005, 03:33 PM
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You're welcome Steve!

BTW gang, remember temperature!

My house is staying cooler than it was. You have to get epoxy to a certain temp to get it cure properly. Once again I had to put the knife in the oven at a warm setting.

For example, I 'glued' up a knife with E120-HP on Thursday and left it in the house. Went away for the weekend and the exposed epoxy was just a tad tacky and not completely hard. A couple hours in the oven at the lowest setting and all is well. It's a chemical process and as such is influenced greatly by temp.

In general, let it start curing at room temp for several hours. Then some time at higher temps to cure. This is especially true with E120-HP. It strengthens with elevated temps (see their data sheet).

BTW I like to keep the mixing container with the knife. I use that to double check how the epoxy is doing and chuck it out when it's done.

Steve


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  #243  
Old 03-30-2006, 01:04 PM
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Quick note about the Gorilla Glue (which is what I'm using) It cleans up nicely with acetone.
If its foaming out into the ricasso area just wipe it down with a cotton swab( q-tip ) wetted with acetone. I like the stuff, easier for me to use than trying to mix the epoxy "just right".


Jens


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  #244  
Old 04-04-2006, 01:43 AM
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Steve,

what do you use to clean E120-HP off the blade?

Alex
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  #245  
Old 04-04-2006, 04:29 PM
DaveL DaveL is offline
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I love this adhesive testing. I was the one who started the Acra Weld thing, only to (sob) have it go down too. Maybe now that is sold with an applicator....Oh well, I have friends that use Loctite 330 exclsively for knife handles, I was just at the Tulsa show and I think all of the Guild members use "Depend" as they call 330. Loctite is good stuff, no doubt.
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  #246  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexkuzn
Steve,

what do you use to clean E120-HP off the blade?

Alex
if it is dried, sandpaper.
if it is not yet cured, regular rubbing alcohol or acetone
all epoxy is toxic, keep it off your skin...
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  #247  
Old 06-23-2006, 07:18 PM
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Guys, if you get a chance can you also test new Locktite "Sumo glue"?
It suppose to be a better "Gorilla glue" - stronger and less foam.

Last edited by alexkuzn; 06-24-2006 at 12:29 AM.
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  #248  
Old 06-24-2006, 12:30 AM
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alexkuzn alexkuzn is offline
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You must read this about Loctite Depend 330
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...pdf/ACH172.pdf
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  #249  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexkuzn
Guys, if you get a chance can you also test new Locktite "Sumo glue"?
It suppose to be a better "Gorilla glue" - stronger and less foam.
glue testing is done as far as Steve and I are concerned. I'd invite anyone else to do some more tests and tack them onto this thread.
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  #250  
Old 09-06-2006, 01:04 PM
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What do you think about using a solvent to clean blade and handle material? I know of one used to clean gym floors before applying wax. Do you think that would be okay to use to clean with before applying epoxy?

Thanks,
Jayson

Last edited by JediOkie; 09-11-2006 at 02:53 PM.
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  #251  
Old 09-06-2006, 01:24 PM
AcridSaint AcridSaint is offline
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Hey Jedi, I didn't catch your real name. Anyways, solvents are mentioned some here, the problem is that you have to find one that leaves absolutely no residue. Even ones that say they don't seem to leave something behind. Alcohol is about the best thing I guess. There's some talk of surface prep throughout the thread.


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  #252  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:22 PM
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I personally use alchohol. It's cheap and usually works quite well.
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  #253  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:37 PM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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when I was on the phone with loctite about 324 speedbonder they said use alcohol. Also mentioned simple green leaves a residue.

Ed


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  #254  
Old 09-06-2006, 06:52 PM
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the thread that won't die...
Anyway, I have been trying Loctite 330 recently on some knives that will never see rough use. This stuff is very quick to use and certainly strong enough for at least a casual use knife. I say casual use only because I haven't done any dishwasher tests but I think it will pass with ease. The temp range and tensile strength are on the high end of anything we tested earlier.

Anyway, it sets up in just a couple of minutes and you can work with the knife scale for drilling, grinding, sanding, whatever in just a couple of minutes. This speeds up productivity on the order of several times - which is huge. The downside to this stuff is the same thing -- it sets up very quickly so you have to move really fast to get excess squeeze out cleaned up where you don't want it. This sounds minor but it's a big deal. You don't want a nice clean knife junked up by epoxy residue where it shouldn't be. The full cure takes up to 24 hours. This is anerobic curing so any adhesive that is exposed to open air doesn't cure and is a sticky mess. I haven't researched toxicity but I don't like any adhesive on bare skin so I consider this a significant drawback also. You will have to clean the noncured stuff up using acetone as alcohol won't cut it. I got this stuff from www.mcmaster.com.

It seems the more I learn about Loctite and their products, the more impressed I am with the depth of their product line and how good a product they put out.
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  #255  
Old 09-11-2006, 03:05 PM
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That spreadsheet really puts it all into prospective. Thank you both so much for all of your hard work. Next Question, where did you find the E-120? I've looked online with no success (darn you google).

Jayson

Last edited by JediOkie; 09-11-2006 at 03:31 PM.
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