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  #1  
Old 03-05-2017, 12:01 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Another question about small wheels

Hey guys so the small wheel attachment that I have for my kmg was gotten from Beaumont or maybe usaknifemaker I cant remember, Point is it has a rubber-y layer on top of the steel, I noticed on knifegrinderparts.com a lot of there stuff is cheaper including the small wheels however. Their small wheels are only metal there is no ruber coating. Has anyone tried these? obviously you will feel the joint of the belt a little more as it goes past but besides that does anyone have any opinion on them either way?
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Old 03-05-2017, 12:13 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I'd stay with the rubber wheels...


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  #3  
Old 03-05-2017, 06:31 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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I have the small wheel arm and an assortment from the knifegrinderparts.com site. The workmanship if just fine, very good in fact. I only use these for some of my designs where the underside of the handle area meets the blade and there is a tighter radius than the 2" wheel on the KMG.

Yes, you get a little bounce at the tape joint especially with the more flexible thinner belts like the J-flex. Not as noticeable with thicker, stiffer belts. In fact you'll get little dips and have to move it quickly and keep it moving. When you're hogging out metal with your 60 grits doing the profiling you won't notice a thing. It's in the finishing where it will show up. It isn't a big problem and I've learned how to minimize it.

For the money they are a great value in my opinion. But I believe if you've been using the rubber faced wheels you'd probably be disappointed using these. However, I don't know how long the rubber faced wheels last and they are considerably more expensive.

I wish I had a rubber faced small wheel to use so I could give you a better comparison but I only have experience using these. Heck, I may use a rubber wheel and wonder why I spent the money Dunno. But I assume the rubber eliminates the bounce and the little scalloped or uneven finish that is easy to get with the solid hard wheels.


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Old 03-06-2017, 12:51 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Dave, I try to avoid doing any finish grinding with a solid metal wheel. I put 1/8 cork on my 1x42 top wheel so it wouldn't ripple when trying to do a clean dip grind. The rubber helps to do a smooth grind. If you're just grinding a small recess the solid is fine, but when you want to finish it rubberized wheels are the best and use lighter pressure even with the rubber. Contact wheels are covered with rubber for a reason. To reduce rippled grinds. I would rather use a sanding drum on a drill press for some applications than a hard metal wheel.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:09 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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I've got four different sizes (rubber) that I use, but not to the extent most of you stock removalist do. They have held up well and will probably last me a lifetime, but like I said not a "heavy" user. I forge close enough to finish to not need a whole lot of profiling, so most of my work on these is handle finish-up.
I think Jim is spot on with the pressure issues - belts are a lot cheaper than wheels.


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Old 03-06-2017, 11:30 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Thanks guys, I got a platen and glass from knifegrinderparts.com and it was definitely good work. I was debating getting a couple more wheels....still not sold either way. I will say the rubber coated one I use it hard on almost every knife.....and yes the bearing did just break (on one side anyway) but the rest of the wheel is spotless just like new so....I came up with the idea of getting new ones since I had to replace the bearing and there have been a couple times I wished I had one that was 1in or maybe 1 1/4in (the one I have is 1/2 in) but I think I am going to order the bearings and get quick shipping and then think for a day or 2 before I order any new wheels since I don't need them right away I don't want to have them put in with the bearings anyway cause then the quick shipping price will go up, The bearings I need asap I am on some what of a time line on a few knives.
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:30 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Dave, if you have a small 1/4 contact wheel with no rubber on it, try some nice thick tape on it like weather stripping. It won't hold up well, but those ripples will be less. Hard neoprene is very good too. Like I said I made a wheel with 1/8" cork on it for my 1x42. I cleaned up that black and red G-wood knife with it and it looks good. I will use a small Dremel wheel to fix that small flat spot on the ricasso base too. I don't think I'll give that back to you as the CPM S35VN is nigh on perfectly HT.(LOL) A small dremel sanding drum will take care of that problem.
Ray taught you well Padawan.
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:35 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Jim the only wheel I have (small wheel anyway) is the 1/2 in with rubber on it, when the bearing broke honest at first I didn't realise you could replace the bearings so I was looking at that site that has the ones without rubber, then I realized I could just replace the bearing I decided to just do that. But of course AFTER looking now I want a couple more LOL I would like one that is around 1 or 1 and 1/4 in but also 1/4. I have been seeing posts lately about guys using electrical tape on some wheels, not on small wheels I think one was on a big contact wheel and one on a tracking wheel maybe? so I thought about maybe that would work. I realize it probilly wouldn't be the most durable. BUt then I thought maybe if you put some CA glue on te adheasive of the tape maybe it would hold on and be a lil more durable ....either way I ordered the bearings and should have them today or in the morning the latest.....lets hope for today Does any one have opinion on the tape idea????

Also jim I told you you asked me for a test knife in return for the sheath and as long as you give my your opinion on the HT (wich I think I may know what you think lol) that knife is yours, if I had plans to sell it...well first I wouldn't of sent it to you for testing if I was planning on selling, but I also would of spent a lot more time on the finish, I finished it very quick with a medium scoth brite belt. I am curious as to how you re finished email me pics, That handle material is very very cool I like the idea of wood laminated with g10 but I tink red orange black and wood is just to much I would of been happy with red and wood or black and wood, I am taking a trip to the place where I got it next week and grab a different ccolor pattern. I THINK there is only 3 or 4 different color patters (at least that's all there was a month ago when I went there last) but its still a new materil I was assured more colors will be coming sood.

As far as the HT Thank you s35vn and 440c I have spent ALOT of time experimenting on the HT.....I am still working on 154cm but I am getting very very close. And your right Ray did teach me well BUT so did everyone else here (that includes you jim) when I looked at the spec sheet and talked to ray about it he told me the best way about it was first into oil then out and hung in a piece of vent pipe with a slot in it and spray air in the slot, So I tried that I also tried straight oil, plain plate quench and plate quench with air.....guess what...........YES ray was right AGAIN. the oil and air in a pie worked the best I still played with temp and time at temp for a bit tho
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Old 03-07-2017, 05:45 PM
Rickoo Rickoo is offline
 
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Most used small wheel sizes?

Wondering if there are one or two small wheels that are commonly used. Debating whether to buy a set of five or just maybe two. Sometimes it's enticing to buy a set of something to find you never use 2/3 of the items you bought.

For those that have 5-6 small wheels, do you find you use them all?
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:29 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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My attachment comes with two wheels, a 1" and a half inch. On very rare occasion I have used the 1". I use the small wheel on every knife and nearly always it's the half inch wheel........


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Old 03-07-2017, 06:38 PM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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First.... DO NOT grind on metal wheels! It's just asking to shred a running belt, and trust me, it hurts. Metal wheels are intended as only "idler" wheels to support the belt. I admit that I get a bit tense whenever I see outfits selling metal wheels as "contact" wheels..... IMO, those people obviously have no grinding experience, and don't realize/care that they are selling a good way for an unknowing knifemaker to hurt themselves.

As far as sizes, I once had everything from 1/2" through 1", and found that the only one I ever used was a 3/4". Of course the exact size(s) a person needs/uses, is dictated by what the individuals needs....but I ended up selling all of my small wheels except the 3/4"...... I keep a smooth and serrated 3/4", along with a spare of each these days.


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Old 03-07-2017, 08:12 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Thanks ED I didn't even think about it shredding a belt....and yes I know it HURTS

Rickoo, listen I have been using this KMG for a year and a half + made ALOT of knives on it I lost count a long time ago. The only small wheel I ever had is this 1/2 in one. The only reason I was thinking about others is because one of the bearings broke and I was looking for bearings and looked at other small wheels....if you look at it enough all of a sudden you "need" it...(that has happened with so many tools) any way I have a replacement bearing in the mail. Most likely ill just stick with that for now. Yeh I would sugest having one and if its only 1 then get a fairly small one. For example I can use my 1/2 wheel to make a 1/2 in divot or I can use it to make a inch divot...you cant use a 1 in to make a smaller divot...
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:38 PM
Rickoo Rickoo is offline
 
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Sounds good. Thanks for the great info. I've learned a lot from reading threads on the Forum. It's a great resource. Especially for someone new to the hobby.

I've enjoyed varying degrees of proficiency in many hobbies over my lifetime. Hoping to make knifemaking the next!
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:54 PM
Golfer Golfer is offline
 
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Please where do you find 1/4" thru 3/4" rubber coated wheels. Ed who has so much more experience than me has me concerned as I have been using some with out rubber for very light grinding to no avail. I will take care with this, thanks Ed.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:55 AM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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Ditto what Ed said about metal wheels. The only one I have is a 1/4" that I don't know if I've ever even used. I think I got it to clean up choils and such. I doubt it could even be rubberized at that diameter.

I feel the same way about plattens, on which I've shredded numerous belts. I use them because the rubber rolling platen is outside my financial means at the moment (and most moments). At least with metal wheels, they are moving with the belt--less friction on the cloth--maybe? In theory?

I don't do any significant stock removal against a platen, and I never use one at full speed.


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