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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith. |
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#1
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Newly Completed for a Client
Just finished this one up for a Client. It's been a long time completing due to the ups and downs of my health..... but it sure does feel good to have it turn out so well through all the struggles!
Mosaic Damascus Blade, Sambar Stag handle, Bronze guard & buttcap.... both textured finish. Blade is finished in satin clear Gun-Kote. Sheath of 8-9oz veg tanned leather with texturing. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#2
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Woo hoo, the master is in the house.
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#3
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Glad to see you posting, I was starting to worry about you.
That is a VERY impressive knife, and I'm liking the "museum fit" more as I look at it. Anyway you do it, natural material is going to move over time so the fit isn't perfect. The museum fit takes care of that. That machine you've got really does some NICE stitching, and WOW - that Damascus pattern. VERY impressive. Is there a thread somewhere you tell about making that Mosaic pattern? If so, I'd sure like a link. |
#4
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Bronze guard and cap? Looks like silver in the photo.
__________________ God bless Texas! Now let's secede!! |
#5
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Freshly polished. It'll take on the "rosy brown" tint all too soon.
__________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#6
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Ed what a Beautiful Heirloom!! How did you attach the butt cap? It looks like it's screwed on? I've done 1 antler handled knife and was at a quandary on how to finish the back off. Decided a butt cap and then went nuts figuring out how to attach it!
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#7
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Quote:
Here's how I use them...(I don't have any good pics right now, but will get some later today). Trim the hidden tang as necessary to length. Drill a #51 or #52 hole in the end of the tang (you want the 1/16" pin to have a loose fit through the tang for some "free play") Attach the body of the clevis to the tang, with a 1/16" hardened steel pin. Then fit things so the 4-40 screw is counterbored into the buttcap. The biggest "trick" is getting the screw lined up and started when you have the inside of the handle/tang full of glue! But if you're careful, slow, and deliberate, it's not hard. Some guys will know this from me talking about it elsewhere, but then I was using a commercial clevis that wasn't nearly as stout as these are. As the pics say.... TiConnector.com has a limited number of them for sale. You need to email or call, because they are not shown on the website. Just ask for "Ed's Clevis". I believe they are around $6-7 each.... but not sure. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#8
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Another hit Ed. Do you happen to have pictures of how you make your belt loop on the back of your sheath. I am constantly irritated when a knife sits too low on my belt and when I sit down the tip of the sheath impacts the seat and pushes the pommel up through my kidneys. I am currently working on a couple of solutions but there is no reason to re-invent the wheel if I do not need to.
By the way, I hate you are not at bladeshow this year I am driving up tomorrow to attend. |
#9
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Thank you Ed! I split the tang on mine and used a 6/32 screw that I took hours getting bend right to fit butt cap. Then I counter sunk a SS flush Allen key in it that had a threaded aluminum barreled spacer. It works but this would have been easier, quicker and stronger!
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Tags |
a, antler, back, bee, blade, damascus, damascus blade, finish, guard, gun, handle, how to, knife, leather, making, material, mosaic, pattern, photo, sheath, silver, stag, stag handle, tang, tanned leather |
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