MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > Heat Treating and Metallurgy

Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-15-2012, 09:12 AM
Pairomedicsfish Pairomedicsfish is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Winter Park Florida
Posts: 103
Brittle Steel....annealing gone wrong?

The was shaped from a nicholson file....I know....mystery metal! but I had it in the shop and have had good luck on prior knives. Anyway, I heat treated to non magnetic, ran it up a little higher, then two cycles in the oven at 375....the thermostat runs a little high....Back in the shop, the knife was pretty hard, a file skated off of it and I tried to drill the tang with no luck....Well, it snapped....so I took this as a bad sign...duh!. I went ahead and broke the blade and look at the grain....any thoughts as to what may have gone wrong?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-15-2012, 10:20 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,612
I'm a little confused as to what was going on here. I'm not sure why you evidently did two tempering heats after austinizing the blade. How was the blade cooled after austinization? Did you forge it or was it strictly stock removal? I think we're going to need a little more information here to help you out.

BTW, the grain in that steel looks too course. That itself can lead to embrittlement but I'm not sure if that would be enough to account for what happened.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-15-2012, 10:40 AM
Pairomedicsfish Pairomedicsfish is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Winter Park Florida
Posts: 103
It WAS forged, some...I almost forgot. The blade was heated in a propane forge to a temperature where I could put a bend in the blade. It was then air cooled. Stock removal followed. It went back in the forge the next day, heated to non-mag plus some and quenced in canola oil which was pre-heated to 120. Once it was quenced, it went into the oven for tempering. The oven was pre-heated to 375, which gets me in the 350 range....I did two cycles, because thats what I have been finding in my research, is one enough? I posted the pic to show the grian, hoping someone could tell me if was too coarse....and you did!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-15-2012, 11:26 AM
Kevin R. Cashen Kevin R. Cashen is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hubbardston, MI
Posts: 324
Overheated in the quenching heat, the grains are huge.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-15-2012, 02:32 PM
Eli Jensen's Avatar
Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
I agree with Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-15-2012, 03:44 PM
Pairomedicsfish Pairomedicsfish is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Winter Park Florida
Posts: 103
Sounds good, time for the crayons....
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-15-2012, 03:47 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
Anybody would be crazy NOT to agree with Kevin. In addition, I feel like 350 F is too low even if the HT had worked out ...


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-15-2012, 04:19 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,612
Nice to have you back as a regular contributor, Kevin.

Pairomedicsfish, somewhere along the line you got that steel too hot for too long. A file with enough carbon in it to make a blade will be made of some type of hypereutectic steel. That is greater than 75-80 points carbon and probably up around 100 points. To austinize for quenching you will need to hold the steel between the Ac1, 1435 degrees F, and Accm, 1600 degrees, for no more than 5-10 minutes. I would actually try to keep that upper temperature to about 1500 degrees just to give some wiggle room on the soak. The temperatures quoted was from a carbon phase diagram for 1% carbon with the critical points being shifted to reflect that the steel is being heated.

Also, you did not anneal the steel, which, if you've read Kevin's post on annealing, is a good thing with that probable carbon content. That tends to grow large plates of carbides that will give you problems machining later. If all you did was heat the blade and let it air cool then you normalized the steel which will still reduce hardness enough to machine easily. Soak no longer than is necessary to make sure that the steel is heated all the way through. Annealing is austinizing the steel and then cooling it slowly in an oven or insulating material.

If you ever suspect that you have over heated the steel at any time you can normalize the steel for three cycles, making sure that you don't overheat the steel again. That will cause the crystals to reform at an ever decreasing size.

Go back and try again watching your temperature more closely.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough

Last edited by Doug Lester; 06-15-2012 at 04:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-15-2012, 06:13 PM
Kevin R. Cashen Kevin R. Cashen is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hubbardston, MI
Posts: 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
Nice to have you back as a regular contributor, Kevin...

..., if you've read Kevin's post on annealing, is a good thing with that probable carbon content...
Doug, I think your are like me in that you visit enough forums that you forget which one is which, I do it quite a bit. My annealing thread is over on Knifedogs
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-15-2012, 06:45 PM
Pairomedicsfish Pairomedicsfish is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Winter Park Florida
Posts: 103
Thank you gentlemen....Ordering steel from Sheffields on Monday!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-15-2012, 10:16 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,612
OOPS!! My bad.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
back, bee, blade, drill, file, forge, forged, hot, knife, knives, made, make, material, post, steel, stock removal, tang


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is something wrong with the steel? pjelect Heat Treating and Metallurgy 3 07-19-2005 01:04 PM
Brittle Edge SteveS Heat Treating and Metallurgy 5 05-05-2005 03:33 PM
Blade Break Video - Brittle Blade JeridJohnson The Display Case 6 10-12-2004 12:51 AM
What am I doing wrong? Smitty Tool Time 6 07-11-2004 05:40 PM
Wrong Steel Wrong Heat Treat--Help! Iron Tree The Newbies Arena 1 10-24-2003 06:37 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:27 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved