D2 satin finish/ scotchbrite satin finish belts?

I am just setting up shop and wish to work with D2 and ATS 34. I have heard that D2 is tough to get a good polished finish on. How does D2 take a satin finish?

Originally I wanted to start with O1 but it being an oil quench steel has set me looking to something I can send off for heat treat as I plan on starting with stock removal and will not have a forge at my disposal.

Any info on the above questions regarding satin finish of D2 and ATS34 would be appreciated.

Also, what is the opinion out there on the satin finish belts by scotchbrite? How do they compare to a hand done finish?

Thanks. Tim G.

Tim, D-2 is a tuff steel to get scratches out of even in the annealed state. You need to make sure that their all gone before the heat treat cause their almost impossible to get out afterwards. I've tried one scotchbrite belt and it didn't impress me a whole bunch. I've had better luck with greaseless buffing compounds. They come in different grits and work alot faster than the belts although I just had the fine, never tried the heaver grit ones but the price for each belt is about three times the cost of the greaseless compounds. You'll find out that none of it is as quick as you would like, a double dose of patients is a real requirerment starting out. As far as compairing these finishes to a hand rub its two different things. Ray

Thanks Ray. Have you ever used the cork belts with rouge or other compounds? At this point I do not have a Bench grinder/Buffing wheel set-up. I hope to be able to utilize my 48" belt sander for a few months until I can fit a grinder/buffer into the budget.

Also, do you feel a novice with patience can work ok with D2?

Tim

Tim;
I use O-1 for my stock removal blades and am very happy with the results. all heat treating is done by me with good results. I also put a scotch brite finish on all my blades. after the fine belt, hand rub with 1500 then metal polish Maas or Flitz. Nice brite satin finish and hides daily scratches. Good luck and have fun. Paul

Tim, What type of grinder is your 48"? If it has a removable drive wheel alot of times they will accept buffing wheels. I've never used the cork belts, maybe someone else can give you information on that. With what I know now having done knives for a few years I wouldn't advise using D-2 to learn with. I've got a bunch of D-2 and very seldom use it cause its hard to make look good unless you do a bead or a sand blast finish. The reason I got as much as I did was I had bought what I was told was D-2 and it wasn't hard to work and finished quite easy. So when I bought the big bunch of D-2, it was night and day difference. Turns out the first D-2 I bought was A-2. ATS-34 works alot better and easier and believe its even cheeper along with more choices of sizes. Ray

Thanks guys.
Tim

My sander/ grinder is a 5010(?) from texas Knifemakers. The contact wheel is direct drive oof the motor.

Tim, I've seen that grinder in their cataloge, not sure if that one will work with the buffing wheel. $50. Knife Shop, its a Wayne Goddard book. I'd take alook at that book, might give you some ideas on some tools you can make without blowing your budget..Ray