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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel. |
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#16
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I love this thread!!
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#17
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No problems, Jerry...
I just hadn't thought of trying that method till I read your post on this thread. I know its an "old" technique.
When was doing it I was actually NOT trying to do the edge, just the convexed area above the edge. But obviously the loose fibres on the buff did get to the very edge. The angle is still very good, so it wasn't buffed away and yes, it did a good job of removing the wire. Of course, it will work best on convex edges, or will turn a crisp cut edge bevel into a washed-out convex edge ... Jason. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#18
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Regarding the green buffing compound, I would rely on Jerry's advice. He has a hundred times the amount of experience I have. I think the reason the green worked for me was I did not go to as fine a grit as Jerry and needed something with a little cutting action to do the buffing. I haven't tried it yet but I am sure Jerry's method is superior.
I alway thought green was a finer grit than white. I have not had a lot of success with white. Keep in mind though I am not a professional knife maker. I have been making them for 25 years but I am still an amateur. |
#19
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Jerry,
Do you have any online or print references from the woodworking people? __________________ Gabe Newell |
#20
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Gabe, if it's online I don't know about it. All of my communications have been by email, and I have some sense that's intentional maybe. I got in the loop because of my work with 3V; Crucible sometimes send folks to me to talk about it. From there we just continued to talk edges and the notion of the convex edge triggered some thinking about what has worked, without there having been a prior understanding of why.
I should qualify my earlier use of the term "we". My role has been strictly limited to that of an outside source of anecdotal and sometimes useful information. It's my understanding that as a result of this work, 3V will appear in some high end woodworking tools in the not too distant future, and the concept of convex edges is now being investigated under controlled conditions. If you have an interest in it, I'll try to keep you informed of what I know. |
#21
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I'd appreciate it.
Do you know if anyone has ever connected with the people at Specialty Blades, Inc.? About SBI - on the Specialty Blades website __________________ Gabe Newell |
#22
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Gabe, I don't know. From what I read there they could use some thoughts on steels. Or maybe they just need to update their website. The only CPM mentioned is CPM440V (S60V) which is certainly the weakest of all the CPM's.
I wouldn't mind their making some S30V razor blades though! |
#23
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Jerry, you talk about using a loose cotton wheel, with white buff compound. I was wondering how that compares to using the felt wheels I have been so fond of. I know they are aggresive but is that only because of the green compound I use? If I was to use white would I be able to control the way it works that you talk about?
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#24
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Jerry I am interested in Vishnu's question too. I use compressed paper wheels for sharpening.
Thank you very much Mr. Hossom I have learned tons of valuable things from your post. You DA Man. |
#25
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redhawk - I stated out with paper wheels and loved 'em. However, I found the edges didn't last at all. I'm currently of the opinion that with the hard wheels you create a 'hollow' grind on the edge. Actually the opposite of the convex edge Jerry is talking about.
Currently I'm sharpening with a mousepad platen (kinda like the rotary platen in effect). I'm raising a burr with each belt from 220 to 5x. Then I use a leather belt to remove the last of the burr. I have to say they come out crazy sharp. However, I don't think I'm getting the same exact edge shape as Jerry. That's something I'm gonna have to try out. FWIW, For almost all my sharpening, I set the platen at 15 degrees off level, with my mouse pad on top, run the belt backwards, and hold the knife level. This gives me a 15 degree edge plus whatever convex effect I get from the soft platen. The leather belt runs at the same angle, but curls a bit mofe over the edge because of it's softness. Would be nice to see it under a 3D microscope or something. Steve |
#26
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Thanks SteveS. I have always loved knives and the past few monhs I have decided to make my own. I am buying blades and putting handles and guards on them while I study the post of the masters such as yourself and Jerry H. Your knives are awesome. I hope to be able to do something like that someday.
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#27
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Redhawk,
You do me WAY too much honor to mention my blades and Jerry's in the same paragraph. I'm just a hobby kinda guy. Serious in my application, but not the experience and knowledge of a real Pro, like Jerry. After 2 and a half years, I'm just getting to the point where I know I don't know squat. Thanks for the complement, tho! Steve PS, buy your blade blanks from a maker after your first few commerical blades. Loads of difference and a more usable product. |
#28
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Your knives look great to me Steve. I don't really know who is who in knifemaking yet.
Where can I buy blade blanks? |
#29
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Redhawk, This would be a good point to open a new topic in the newbies area. Don't want to hyjack this thread, you know.
Steve |
#30
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Ooops sorry forgot myself. I will post there.
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