I'm just keeping it simple.

[Terrill Hoffman]

I have had a few people ask about my setup for knives. I wish I could tell you how high tech everything is, but to be honest, it is about as simple as it gets.
I use a PVC framework with "Tough Frost" by Rosco.
The backgrounds are everything from wallpaper, artist papers, scrapbook sheets, flooring tiles to deer skins (those in the shot below).

I use a single Photogenic 600 watt/second "Powerlite" in a small softbox.
Usually the light is at about a forty-five degree angle from the rear. With this much light I don't need a tripod and can move around to get the best view without having to adjust everything.

I don't think everyone will go out and grab a strobe unit but I happen to have them around. The shot below will show what you can do with nothing more than a couple of work lights from Home Depot.

Keep it simple and have fun.

[Buddy Thomason]

Thanks for the info and pictures of your set-up Terrill! Using the set-ups you describe, what shutter speed and aperture settings do you find are necessary to give you adequate depth of field, etc.?
BT

[Terrill Hoffman]

Buddy I usually use between F8 and F16. Basically the midway point on the lens. With the strobe unit I can use a shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/250 to avoid shake without the tripod. When I play with the hot lights, the shutter speed drops to 1/4 second and the tripod comes out!
Camera (Canon 20D or D60), to Capture One, to Photoshop CS, to printer.
Normally there is very little to do in Photoshop other than retouch a few dust spots and resize.
I print everything on either a Kodak 8500 dyesub or my new toy. HITI has a little 5x7 dyesub printer that I picked up a few weeks ago. Overall size is a lot smaller and makes traveling easier. I've found that if you compare using good injet paper and inks the cost for dyesub isn't bad at all.
The HITI will print a 5x7 for $.93.
The cost for paper and ribbon is only $.60 but I add an extra $.33 for the cost of a replacement printer based on 1,000 prints. (yes, I'll get more prints than that but I'll know my cost is covered.)

[rhrocker]

Terrill, many thanks for showing your set-up! Much appreciated, and I picked up some tips on settings also. Good info on the HITI.

[SharpByCoop]

Terrill surprised the heck out of me in Vegas. He has a VERY cool filter that reads and corrects true white balance from whatever light source you are working with (ExpoDisc, right?). He was using the set of 1000-watt shop halogens that turn EVERYONE'S images yellow. Not his. Perfect lighting as adjusted by the camera after his disc filter ran a test.

I like the strobes though. That's MY lighting of choice. Diffused is even better.

Terrill, that upper shot has so much shadow and detail I want to grab it and go!

I like it!

Coop

[Terrill Hoffman]

Thanks Coop, that is one taken with those high dollar ($30.00 for two) work lights.

[Andy S]

Hi Terril,
First let me say I really like your photography. You definately make good use of props without overwhelming the subject. I see your setup looks remarkably similar to mine. The one thing I have never been happy with is the rip stop nylon I have used as a diffuser. I knew diffusion material like the material you use has been available but I didn't know what it was called. I found a photography supply company in California that sold it to me for $53 for a 25' roll x 48" wide.
My question is how did you attach the tough frost to your pvc? It's not real apparent in the photos.
It looks like you are using colored gels on some of your shots. Are these done with strobes and snoots?
On a side note....it seems that everyone on the forum is trying to use hot lights for their photography. I used to do it that way but found that I could buy a cheap studio strobe on Ebay for the price of a few of those hot lights. I was using a 600 watt hot light before and man they don't call them HOT lights for nothin'. I'd be sweating in short order. I have also found that having 2 layers of diffusion material (whatever that may be) seperated by as little as 4 inches goes a long way to eliminating hot spots.....just my 2 cents.

[Terrill Hoffman]

Andy, thanks for the kind words. The material is called "Tough Frost" cat.no. 3008 by Rosco. I attach it it that time honored method, ducktape.
The colored gels I use are also by Rosco. Most of the time in the studio I use strobes unless I want to use the colored gels. Then I switch to the hot lights. I use a Surefire flashlight to shine through the gels. This way I can position llight and gel just about anywhere.

[Andy S]

Thanks for the heads up Terrill. I think I am going to play with some of the gels as well.