Grinding on 1" belt

[alexkuzn]

I just got an 1"x42" belt grinder and trying to make 7" blade on it.
It's very hard for me too make uniform flat surface. Other than lack of skills I suspect it's also due to a small contact area of 1" belt.

Is it much easier to make uniform flat grind on 2" belt?

Do you have any trade secrets/tips for me on flat grind?

[Bearpaw]

Alex,

I made a lot of blades on an old Montgomery Ward 1" X 42". Now I use a Bader II. Practice on any grinder is the key.

[chrisinbeav]

One thing that I found that helped out immensly... make yourself a jig to hold the blades up against the belt. It will help you keep the blade at the same distance, angle, etc... from the belt.

Chris Nilluka

[SKIVIE]

Alex, Ive done a lot of work on a 1" x 30" HF model. It beats having nothing at all. Yes, in anwer to your question.....a 2'' belt on a nicer grinder helps a ton. I went from my 1" to a 2 x 72 grizzly then to a 2 x 72 KMG. I could tell a lot of difference in each jump I made. I think some of it is mental but what ever helps sure makes the job easier.

Shane

[alexkuzn]

Chris,

do you have pictures of any of these jigs?


Thanks,
Alex

[alexkuzn]

BTW The belt that came with my grinder is almost dull already.
What is a good source for 1"x42" belts?

Thanks,
Alex

[Robert Washburn]

Abrasive south is where I buy belts .Best bang for the buck.They make what you order. Robert

[Drac]

Alex,

The various supply houses carry them. Jantz carries then in j-flex, cork (various grits), leather, scotch brite and zirconia as wells as the standard aluminum oxide and Koval has the 600 and 900 in the micron belts. Zirconia and j-flex both a real improvement over the belt that came with your machine and the micron are great for finishing handles.

Hope this helps,
Jim

[chrisinbeav]

Alex,

The jigs are nothing exciting. Basically any scrap piece of wood then cut a notch in it to hold the spine of the blade in place while you work.

Chris Nilluka

[alexkuzn]

What are the grits I'll need?

Koval knives sell this set below for $64. Looks like hella lot of belts. Do you think I'll need all of them?

3M Klingspor
Three 36 grit 3-Mite Resin Bond Belts
One 60 grit Blue Alumina Zirconia Belt
Two 60 grit 3-Mite Resin Bond Belts
One 120 grit Blue Alumina Zirconia Belt
Two 120 grit 3-Mite Resin Bond Belts

Three 220 grit 3-Mite Resin Bond Belts
Three 400 grit 3-Mite Resin Bond Belts
Two 30 micron Film Belts
Two 15 micron Film Belts
One TZA-16 1200 grit Trizact Belt

[Drac]

Unfortunately that's a 2x72 mix.

As for what grits you need it varies from maker to maker. You will need a coarse grit for "hogging" or removing large amounts of metal and assortment of middle grits to remove the marks made buy the coarse belt. I use 60 and 80 grit ceramics and gators to hog my blades, than move up to approx. 180 trizact belts and than to a 340. My approach is a little odd as I hand sand with 220 between the 180 and the 340 and than hand sand the rest of the way thru the blade. On the handle I use 120, 220, 340, 400 and 600 with hand sanding to what ever I decide as a final finish. Unfortunately a lot of these belts are not available in the 1x42, that's one of the main reasons 2x72 is the choice of makers.

Other people use different belts and techniques, so look around the forums, books and videos available.

Hope this helps,
Jim

[Andries Olivier]

When it comes to belt width and grits only experience will guide you to the technique and style suited for your particular preferances. I find 1" belts better suited for grinding smaller blades, but a lot of makers use it for all their grinding. I rough grind with a 36 and clean up with a 60 before HT. After HT I clean the flats on a 80 and then 320 on a flat disk. Then I grind bevels (or flats) to correct symmetry with a 60 and then straight to a new 400 and finish machine work with Trizac 1200. I now it sounds impossible but if 60 grit grindig was done properly you should be able to get a good 400 finish within 3 to 4 passes provided you use a NEW 400. After the 1200 the rest is done by hand. For wood and most handle material I use 60, 180 or 220, 400 and do the rest by hand.

This system works for me, but I bet you can ask 100 makers how they do it and get 100 different answers. Experiment with different methods and equipment and talk to as many makers as possible. In time you will develope your own style and method. The only tip I can give is buy the best belts you can. They cut production time and although more expensive you save in the end because they go further. And NEVER grind blades with dull belts.

Happy grinding

[Jim Charles]

You said you couldn?t do a uniform flat grind. #1 you have to have a platen to do a true flat grind. Does yours have one?

[alexkuzn]

I have a Kalamazoo 1 x 42 Inch Grinder and it has a platen and a tilt table.
Unfortunatly tilt table can't be set for less than 40 degrees to platen. I'll probably modify it before starting on my first blade.