Re-glue butt splice on belts?

[M&J]

Took out some different belts that had been siting about 4-5 years and the moment they tensioned up, the joint separated. This happened to 3 belts so I'm not happy tossing these ceramic belts into the trash.

Is there a suitable adhesive that can be used?

[TexasJack]

I seem to recall we had some discussion about that years ago and the results were fairly depressing.

I know exactly how you feel when you take a brand new belt, put it on the grinder, and then have it come flapping off a few seconds later. Dangerous, irritating, and so aggravating to lose the $$ spent on that belt!

[Ed Caffrey]

It's in your best interest to just trash those belts and buy new ones. It's not worth the risks trying to repair them involves.

[M&J]

Oh well. I suspect that whole box will yield the same breakage. Thanks for saving me the time of attempting to fix them.

[M&J]

Yesterday I had this episode with some 3M Trizact and Norton Norax structured abrasive belts. Less then 3 minutes of use and separation. Granted some are a bit older so the adhesive has deteriorated over time. OTOH there is a belt dated back in '06 that has worn down that is used for polishing and that splice joint is solid. Pretty unhappy to blow through these new belts and some I flexed the joint to see it lift up easily so about 3 in this group have not even touched metal.

Seems that of what has had separation are the cloth backed belts. What are your experiences among belts that the joint splice fails?

[M&J]

Spoke with Ryan at Tru Grit and he relayed a one year shelf life typically though 6 months would be optimal. Lesson learned. I have belts with plenty of age that remain useful on the grinders but now days, I will keep this in mind for belt purchases.

[jimmontg]

Is permanently flexible and I use it for leather 1x42 belts I haven't had a failure yet. I use 10-12 oz Wickett and Craig leather I skive the ends on my small hand High Tech splitter about an inch and a half.
I clamp with 1/2" blocks to evenly distribute pressure and after glue has set up I skive the belt down to around 7-8 oz and barely a bump is felt if at all. I used to sew after I skived the belts even, but they bumped and wore down the .6mm tiger thread even though I sank the thread with a stitch groover, leather is flexible when pushed against. I suppose using a scribe you could punch holes for a tough thread plus the epoxy. Best time to use on a grinding belt would be before it breaks. Bend and if it splits, glue it.

If it works for leather it should work for a cloth backed abrasive belt, but note, I use it on 4" wheels and I wouldn't recommend small wheel contouring. I use it for knife scales too, but not for h##den tangs, G Flex is more expensive than JB Weld.

[M&J]

Thanks Jim!

I saved the belts so will try this.