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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#31
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Don, Good to hear from you. I converted my surfacing machine over to belt the first week it came in. I put a serrated wheel on it and except for using the 36 grits for hogging I use trizact belts and get as smooth of a finish as I've seen people get with the rocks. I sure have saved the ends of my fingers since I bought the surfacing machine. Talk to yall later, Dwayne
__________________ Dwayne Dushane http://dushaneknives.com Romans 8:28 "and we know that all things work together for good to them that love God, to them who are the called according to His purpose." |
#32
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I know that this hasn't been open for a while, but here goes. As someone who has worked Ivory off and on for about 29 years,Stabilization of Ivory can be done several waysThompson's water seal is one that is probably the least expensive way to go; Minimal color change but it will still flex a little. Next is Paleo Bond many coats over several days; with no distinctive color change, with little movement. Next is Comercial stabilizition; sometimes you may have a slight color change, very little if any movement. Lastly super- glue; minimal color change, but may have some movement. No matter hwich method you use always use either thin super-glue (the cyano type), as this will fill any surface pores. Once you've done this you can finish as needed. Ive never used the Blue rouge for plastics, but I've always used Zam Rouge compound on a wheel that I only use for Ivlry and then Pink no scratch.
I hope that this is of some help to others in the future. __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#33
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Well thats some interesting advive on Mammoth , Here is the method I have found works best for me , I use a Small Milling machine with a vise on it , I put a solid peace of tungston under it so it cant go any lower and help especialy if i need to take more off one end than the other , I set it as I want to cut it the clamp it with leather on ea side of the mat. put a Good sharp 3/4 Mill in it he machine and set it on med/high speed take off 1/8 in at a time , I never cut all the way to the side edges where the vise is but a trench down the middle , when I get it a thics as i need it , I pull it out go to the bandsaw and trim off the 2 edges putting the blade perpendicular with the flat on the back side , use a fresh 220 belt and lightly finnish sand it flat , this way almost No heat builds up ever , T
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#34
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I'm feeling so much better since my successful parathyroid surgery that my Mom and I have signed up for a table at the Central Texas Knife Show in Roundrock, Texas this July. I have only a couple of knives on hand left for my table, so I'm going to ask this customer to lend me his knives for the show, and I have to build several more for the show in a very short time. God is great and time's a'wastin', as Snuffy Smith used to say. Thanks, Bill, for the tip about nelsonite. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-04-2008 at 06:44 PM. |
#35
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Don,
Glad to hear everything went well with the surgery. Good to have you back! Make sure to post a few photos of those knives. They sound like quite a project. Bill |
#36
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Bill, I just saw your website. I didn't know you made Texas Toothpicks. I've made several for my own entertainment while I couldn't take orders. Those and a few 2 blade trappers.
Your knives are all really outstanding!! I'll post photos if they turn out well, but I really don't expect too much from the bolsters in a photo. Might as well be brass. |
#37
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I'm waiting for the Nelsonite I ordered from the Ellis's now. |
#38
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I've decided to add some ivory preparation work I feel is neecessary with how I work this material. I have used with good success ivory that has only been out of the ground for a few months. What I will do is either place the pieces in the rough sizes - small - of course or oversized scales in the microwave for drying. Microwaves heat from the inside of materials rather than the outside. I want the ivory to come up to a temperature just a bit more than it will be comfortable for me to hold in my hand. Certainly a little less will work too. This only takes about 25 seconds in the microwave I use. I allow the piece or pieces to cool and then repeat three or four times. Do not over heat! You will destroy the ivory.
I then over size any necessary the pieces and place them in baby or mineral oil which of course is available in any drug store, for several days. I do like to do this more than two or three days so I try to do this procedure well before getting involved in the actual fitting work. I'm sure you too will find this will assist you in working with this material. Remember as has been mentioned several times, it's the heat that affects the ivory not water as some have mentioned but getting the ivory thoughly dried out before fitting it to the knife is essential. I believe you will find this will work as well as the commercial stabilizing that does count on it being dry before it is done. Frank __________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
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