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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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Betcha can't catch up with me!
This post is the first one where we'll actually build the barlow linerlock together.
So post your questions, comments, photos of WIP, etc. rat here. Without further ado, Im going to post my WIP to date. |
#2
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Here we go
I've cut out the outline of two blades from the barlow design, pasted them onto a piece of 3/32" 154CM and rough sawed the outline. I always make two blades at the same time.
I've drilled and reamed thru the paper patterns for the 3/16" pivot holes in the blades. I've drilled a mounting hole past the tip of each blade so I can mount the b;ades onto a tooling plate. Next I've set up my tilting table on my milling machine in order to mill the blade flats. Lastly, I have milled the flats on both sides of the two blades. |
#3
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I cut the extra stock off the blade ends, ground in the cutting edge profile, and polished the cutting edge up to the tip.
Then I blackened the tip cutting area with a black marker and I've set up my height gage on the surface plate and am scribing the center line of the blades so that I can see how much to grind each side of the tip and have the cutting edge centered. Actually I scribed two lines .025" apart. I grind the tip on each side to the layout mark. |
#4
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The blade flats are finish ground to 220 grit , ready to cut apart.
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#5
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Now I've got two blades. It's time to grind the back spacer stop and then the lock notch.
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#6
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The disk sander table is set at 90 degrees to the disk surface. I'm finish grinding the back stop surface square.
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#7
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I've set the disk sander table at 8 degrees from 90 and am grinding in the lock notch.
The last view shows how I've machined a sharp angle on the back of my disk. This makes it easy to get a square corner in the notch. There are other reasons for this. It comes in handy while making slipjoints. Last edited by Don Robinson; 11-13-2006 at 05:52 PM. |
#8
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HOLLY MOLLY , I havent even got my plans and material yet.
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#9
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Paypal problem
Dwayne, Paypal has always sent me a notification when someone sends money. This time for some reason they haven't sent me the email, so I didn't know you and Brett had paid for the plans.
I just checked my account and found payments from you and Holmsy. We'll get the plans out tomorrow, priority mail to you and airmail to Brett, since he's an Aussy. We did send the plans to Cap Hayes. I'm really sorry about the delay. I had been wondering if anyone else was going to participate. Now I know it was my fault for not checking my account. Anyway, this thread will be here a long time to come. Start when you have everything. |
#10
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So here's what I have now. Two blades ready to fit the liners.
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#11
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Time to make the back spacers
I've cut out the paper pattern fom the design and traced around it with a black marker on two pieces of steel and am sawing the spacers out.
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#12
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I ground the end of the spacer that forms the blade stop and it's ready to mount on my tooling plate with the blade, bushing, and both liners in one stack.
The plate already had a 1/8" reamed hole so I put in a pivot pin, then the two liners, bushing and blade. Now I'm ready to drill and ream all the dowel holes. Last edited by Don Robinson; 11-13-2006 at 06:26 PM. |
#13
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gee don you been busy, of course we cant catch up with you if you dont send us plans, dont give me excuses about paypal i know your holding out so you can be first to finish, ha ha ha.
would you beleive this has been keeping me awake at night and i havn't even started yet. im like a kid counting down to christmas. i still need to order all my materials though. gonna have to scrounge some cash though. unfortunately im in heavy saving mode at the moment because i gotta drive across the country at the end of the month and when i did it the first time it took about $400 in petrol. and my weekly wage is only 100. Don, being mostly a fixed blade man i have never really bothered with reaming so how exactly do i do it? when you say a 1/8" reamed hole, do i drill with a 1/8" bit then ream or do i drill undersized and ream? and how much undersized? any chance of a drill bit and reamer shopping list don? Brett __________________ Brett Holmes. Australian knife maker extraordinaire Last edited by Brett Holmes; 11-13-2006 at 07:21 PM. |
#14
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Use a standard HSS straight flute reamer. You need a 1/8 " for the pivot and a .126 diameter for two dowels. Or you can use more 1/8" pivot pins instead of dowels. Dowels are always oversize a little to get a press fit, which we don't want.
Drill reamed holes using a drill .005" to .010" smaller than the reamer. There are optional 1/16" dowel holes in the plans. If you use the 1/8 dowel pins, just drill the 1/16" holes. Always use drilling fluid or tapping fluid on reamers. Otherwise they'll cut oversize. If you guys are metric, then select the closest metric drills and reamers. You should have the design within 4 days from tomorrow, so probably the first of next week. I forgot you have 5/32 pivot pins, so get a reamer to fit. Again, sorry about the delay. I don't understand why Paypal didn't notify me. ??? |
#15
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Hey Don.
Someone is going to have a Robinson type Barlow for Xmas !!! You will have it complet4ed in no time. Frank __________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
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blade, fixed blade, forge, hunting knife, knife, knife making, knives |
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