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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 05-16-2005, 09:00 AM
SilverCreek SilverCreek is offline
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Inspired but clueless

After reading the latest Blade I've decided to customize some factory knives to give away as presents. My question is if I want to polish a blade that was finished with bead blasting would I be heating up the blade to the point that it would lose it's HT. Also to farther the custom could I have it cryo treated. The blades are 440C. I'm definatly a newbie as I have only put together 1 knife kit.
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:07 AM
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TikTock TikTock is offline
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You will not need to heat that blade up one bit. TO polish it, simply get assorted grit sandpapers and work your way from 220 all the way through to about 800 or 1000. This will NOT take a short amount of time.....its hard work. After that, either leave what finish you have or youll need access to a buffer....to get a true mirror finish is a very time consuming and difficult process. 800 grit scratches will show up surprisingly well next to a true mirror finish.

You will not really need to cryo that blade, and i doubt you'd know the difference one it was done anyways.....
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:25 PM
SilverCreek SilverCreek is offline
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I do have a buffer wheel but don't know what compounds to use. Do I sand in the same direction?
I was also thinking of reshaping the back of one of the blades. That would definatly take some grinding and would probably heat it up enough to affect HT. In a case like that what would I need to do before sending it for HT?
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:20 PM
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chrisinbeav chrisinbeav is offline
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As far as the compound goes there is a stainless compound, which I would use first. Then I would goto a white compound for the final finish.

Sanding? Yes alternate directions. The idea is to cut out your previous sanding marks. Some people prefer to do perpendicular cuts, or sanding at 90 degrees to the last grit. Me, I found my own technique. I prefer to do the coarse grits in a long cross hatch motion, that keeps things nice and flat and straight. Then once I get past 400 or so I switch to 90 degrees. I'm sure you'll figure out what works best for you.

You had also mentioned that you want to reshape the back of one of your knives and seem to be concerned about the HT. Well.... first I would want to know, are you talking about reshaping the tang or reshaping the backside of the cutting edge? If you are just reshaping the tang, I probably wouldn't worry about it too much. Just make sure your not getting the steeel glowing while grinding! If you are reshaping the backside of the cutting edge then yes you'll need to re-heat treat. Now before you go and do this find out, "for sure", what steel you are using. Some steels are not easily re-hardened and tempered. Maybe get some advice from whomever you plan on sending the blade/s to for HT. They will know if they will be able to re-harden the blade for you.

Chris Nilluka
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Old 05-17-2005, 04:56 AM
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mete mete is offline
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You could grind it without overheating ,just go slowly and dunk in water frequently. Cryo treatment of the blade as is will be of no benefit.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:15 PM
SilverCreek SilverCreek is offline
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Thanks, You guys are great. I have the folders shipping as I write. I know that this project along with the input of experianced knifemakers such as yourselves will get me one step closer to understanding this great art.
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