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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 04-17-2005, 01:33 AM
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Mungo Park Mungo Park is offline
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metal/wood interface

I am trying to finish my first knife. When I sand the brass guard where it meets the wood with 400 grit paper the paper gets brass on it and then it gets on the wood and discolurs it. I covered the wood with masking tape but it does not work that well. This also happens when I sand the pins. I am sanding by hand. I also found that when I used a buffing wheel with white compound it turned black as it buffed the brass and turned the wood black as well ( the brass did however buff nicely) If I sand the black off the wood I get scratches the brass and it is a endless cycle. How do you finish this part of the knife?
Cheers Ron.
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Old 04-17-2005, 01:43 AM
SAM-U-L SAM-U-L is offline
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Hi mongo, endless cycle indeed. What kind of wood are you using? i did go through that when i used regular wood for my first practice handles. If you use stabalized wood you shouldn't have that problem.
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:25 AM
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Mungo Park Mungo Park is offline
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Yes I am useing boxwood burl which I cut myself and it is quite white even whiter than maple, but it is on the knife now?????
Cheers Ron
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:52 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Try waxing the wood before you buff the brass. Then mask it with tape, several layers if necessary. The masking will prevent the wood from getting black but if you do cut through the tape having the wax there will make the black easier to remove. Before you try to sand or polish the wood, mask the brass with tape to prevent scratching it.........


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Old 04-17-2005, 09:01 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Good advise. Here's another way to try.

Polish the whole handle and bolster with Semichrome using a piece of paper towel to put it on, another paper towel to polish it off. Rub it in well. This stuff gets down in the grain deep, and will remove discoloration in the grain. You can also buff the semichrome in.

Whenyou're buffing the handle, always buff the bolster with the handle pointed away from the wood. That helps keep the compound from smearing into the wood.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:10 PM
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I havnt tried it when the handle is already on the knife, but I usually either use stabilized wood, or semi stabilize by soaking the wood in wood hardener. Wonder if soaking the handle in wood hardener AFTER its on the handle would make a diffrence? Buffing of the outer layer will expose the brass, but should leave enough in the wood to seal it from the brass blacking. Like I said, I havnt tried it, but I "think" it might work. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Good luck! and keep us posted on how it comes out!

God Bless
Mike


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Old 04-17-2005, 08:18 PM
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Thanks for the tips, I will work on it and as above keep you posted. And when I start the next one I will harden the wood, I ordered some wood hardner but has not come in yet. I looked all over town but nobody has any. I have some nice burls cut from trees from the family farm which I thought would be a nice touch on a knife for my son.
Cheers Ron.
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Old 04-18-2005, 12:43 AM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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The method Ray Rogers suggest is the one I use. It seems the simplest. It also works when you need to work on a wood or other handle material that is significantly softer than the guard/bolster material. To avoid, undercutting the softer material. When buffing, I only use a single layer of masking tape on the surface I am protecting and it seems to hold up to even some fairly extended buffing. Buff AWAY from the tape, to avoid stripping it off as you buff. The only thing I can suggest given that the handle is already assembled and semi-finished, is to sand it back some more and try again. Jason.


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