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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 07-13-2001, 12:26 PM
andy gascoigne
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Purpleheart & mosaic pin question


I have some purpleheart and some tulip wood that has been sitting on a shelf for about 5 years the wood is about 2"x2" x12" and has all sides coated with wax. What I need to know is that, if when I cut it up on the bandsaw will I have to do any stabalising or will the wood have dryed out O.K. What is the best way to finish both of these woods?.

Question 2, Can you use mosaic pins as pivot pins. I would like to have a go at a spring back folding knife, can you peen the mosaic or is there another method?

Andy..


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  #2  
Old 07-13-2001, 01:16 PM
MJHKNIVES
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Andy,you might just remove the wax from one side of each piece of wood,let it sit for a week or two and see if it's still ok.Usually they say to just coat the ends,moisture can then escape more slowly from the sides.Stabilizing your wood is nice,but it's not an absolute necessity,I've used both non stabilized w/no problems.As to #2,I will leave it for someone more qualified. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 07-13-2001, 01:21 PM
MJHKNIVES
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Sorry,on finishing,I use watco natural,or tung oil,when dry apply a coat of carnauba wax.
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  #4  
Old 07-13-2001, 03:00 PM
Don Cowles
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Andy, you might try posting this on the Folder Forum, though my feeling is that mosaic pins would not work well for pivot pins. They are primarily decorative, and are usually made from softer metals.
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2001, 07:15 PM
ghostdog
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Andy, wood will absorb moisture from the air. Wax that totally encloses the wood will keep moisture out, but will also keep moisture in.

I have used Tulipwood as handles on a few items and as long as they stay here in my part of the world they are stable.

I live on the west coast of BC where it is humid. I have sent a tool with a Tulipwood handle to my son who lives in a very arid climate and the wood checked a wee bit.

Tulipwood will lose its wonderful color over time, goes a kind of tan if left unprotected. We use a finish that contains UV blockers for it.

ghostdog
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  #6  
Old 07-13-2001, 09:16 PM
Gary Mulkey
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I might be able to help a little with the first question. The lowest moisture level that you can get air drying wood is approximately 12% (depending on what part of the country you live in) and the wood will eventually return to those levels if exposed to the air long enough. The wax coating will retard the process but not stop it. Five years is a long time and it's possible that it has gained moisture in that time. The only way to be sure is too borrow a moisture meter. It needs to be no more than 8% moisture (at least in my part of the country) to avoid shrinkage.

A trick that you might use if you're worried about shrinkage is to quarter-saw the wood. This way the length and width will remain stabil and only the thickness will be subject to shrinkage. It does change the appearance of the wood grain so I would try it on a small piece to see if that's the look that you want.

Gary
gary@fallcreek.net
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2001, 12:08 AM
cajun bones
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I'll give my two cents worth on the second part, for what it's worth. I've only used mosaics perhaps a half dozen times, so this is what I've found. Take a close look at the cross section of a decorative pin. It's mainly several pins within a hollow tube surrounded by colored epoxy (or maybe something else, depending on the maker). After finishing knives, I've had VERY small bits of the epoxy rise above the surface and "chip out". It doesn't distract from the appearance, but you wouldn't want it to be a pivot pin. Also, I was gluing up another handle when I realized the pin was a very tight fit. You guessed it, I took a small hammer to it, and in essence was peening it. The problem was, the outer tube was so fragile that it spread a little more than the other side of the handle and after being finished, the pattern didn't look quite as sharp. Lesson learned I suppose. Hope this helps.

Chris
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  #8  
Old 07-14-2001, 02:47 AM
andy gascoigne
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Thanks guy's

You never fail to come up with sound advice.

I am sure I have seen a folding knife some place with what looks like a mosaic pin, but thinking on maybe it was just a section covering a counterbored pin .

Many thanks,

Andy..
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2001, 05:45 PM
Geno
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In my experience, purpleheart doesn't stabilize well.
I sand to 600 grit and use ren. wax. I wouldn't buff unless you want it to turn brown.
Buff by hand with a soft cotton cloth.
Mosaic pins probably won't hold up well as pivots as the OD os a thin wall tube, not solid.
Tulip wood, if I remember is an oily hardwood and probably wouldn't stabilize well either. (I've only used a couple of times.)
Keep them dry and don't heat them too much while working them as oily woods burn easily.

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