Buffer $72.99

[cavetech]

Hi Guys:

I came across this buffer on sale at Harbor Freight. 3/4 HP for $72.99. I know 3450 RPM is too fast, but would it be acceptable with 6" buffing wheels instead of 8" wheels? Darn, the price is right.

This has got to be better than my 90 degree hand grinder in a vise with a 4" buffing wheel.

Thanks, Steve
nettech3@cox.net

[cavetech]

PS: Could a rheostat like a dimmer switch be used to slow the motor down to an acceptable spped for working on knives?

Thanks, Steve
nettech3@cox.net

[NuViking]

My buffer is a grinder with some extentions made on a lathe. I preffer 8 inch or larger wheels because I find they cool faster. Even taking into consideration how many inchs per second the contact of the wheel is moving I dont find any problems. Check with an electrician if you feel this is still to fast.
I find you have to approach the contact firmly but not aggressivly. Cool the blade offen not only to save that valuable carbon but also lowers the odds of an accident from burning your fingers. A tight grip is required no matter what speed you are running.
Yes this is the most dangorous tool in the knife shop but take your time and protective gear all the way.

[Ray Rogers]

I have a couple of those buffers from Grizzly. Yes, they are too fast but they are usable for many buffing jobs if you are careful. The 6: wheels do slow the surface speed but they also bring you in closer to the buffer's case because of the short spindles. Still, I use the 6: wheels on those buffers and 8" wheels on my larger and slower buffers.

Another option I used to use is to mount some buffing wheels on half inch bolts and the chuck the bolts in my drill press. Speed is no problem that way but you have to buff sideways.....

[Alan L]

Woodcraft has a 1725 rpm 8" grinder currently on sale for $69.95, regularly $99.95. I converted mine to a buffer and love it!

[cavetech]

Thank you all for your replies and good advice. I would like to have a buffer very much, but also can't justify one of the costly do it right buffers at this point.

I found the Woodcraft grinder/buffer and it looks good. Couldn't find the sale though.

Woodcraft also had a Jet buffer with sanding drum for about $166.00 and it was the right speed. Here is it's link: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5131

I'm still unsure what to do for a buffer.

Does anyone know if a dimmer type switch will dial down a fast buffer? Heck it works on drills and things......

Thanks again, Steve

[B.Finnigan]

I have always used a 3600 RPM buffer, heat is only an issue when you use too much pressure. If you are only floating the blade across the layer of liquid compound there should be no heat at all. IMHO heat means your not doing it right and just making more work for yourself.

[BigD]

Dont make the same mistake I did , I bought a dial switch from Grainger for my bandsaw , I just tried it on the grinder , it wont work on that either. My electrician buddy says its the motors , they are not designed to work like that , they need all their power at once. I agree with Finnigan , just float it on the wheel , light pressure.

[Andrew Garrett]

I buff on a variable speed six inch Delta bench grinder. 'bout $50 bucks at Lowes. It is starting to give up on me though the motor is only working intermittantly and the shaft has side to side play (not good).

I'm gonna replace it with the Delta 8" V/S bench grinder. I think it's a 1/3 or 1/2 HP. That's pretty weak, but it is just for buffing. I think it costs about $75.

[Ray Rogers]

As we all should know by now, the buffer is the most dangerous tool in a knife makers shop. A slow speed machine does help with the heat if you have that problem but it is also much safer. If a slow speed buffer manages to pull a blade from your hand, sling it around the wheel, and stab it into your thigh (it happens!) you can take some comfort from knowing that it isn't stuck as deep as it could have been....

[Alan L]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

As we all should know by now, the buffer is the most dangerous tool in a knife makers shop. A slow speed machine does help with the heat if you have that problem but it is also much safer. If a slow speed buffer manages to pull a blade from your hand, sling it around the wheel, and stab it into your thigh (it happens!) you can take some comfort from knowing that it isn't stuck as deep as it could have been....

That's exactly why I got the slow-speed one! Mount a board right behind the wheels, notched to fit over said wheels, and IT catches the blade instead of your thigh, gut, forehead, or whatever. Using a slower speed on the buffer means you do buff longer, but the blade also doesn't fly as far when it bounces off the guard board, bench, and walls... Sometimes the point doesn't even get broken!

[whv]

if you are up to a little scrounging and building, you can always mount a shaft in pillow blocks with a pulley in the center to gear any motor you get to the speed you want. adapters on the ends for your buffs and you are set to go. i don't have time to look right now, but i am sure that the search button will turn up some drawings and/or photos of this rig.

[jdm61]

Hey andrew,
I bought one of those little Dealta variable speed grinders when i first got started but i haven't touched it for 6 months. i would like to use it as a buffer when i build my shop. What kind of extension did you use to get the wheel away from the motor?.
Joe Mandt

[Andrew Garrett]

I didn't. I use it as is with no problem. I suppose you could put some spacers under it and use 8" buffs to create some distance, but I haven't needed to.

[cavetech]

You have all been very helpful. This taught me a lot. I think I know what's necessary now. I'll get a slower buffer for safety. The arbor and motor idea is also a good one.

Never thought I'd need body armor again over a machine!

Thanks, Steve
nettech3@cox.net