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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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A fillet knife sheath
Here is a fillet knife sheath for a Ron Post (Ontario Canada) knife . The sheath has a dangler snap and as it's a total "using" sheath the strap is riveted instead of sewn on just to save time and therefore money.
It's lined inside from the top of the blade down with galvanized steel to that darn flexy, slightly upswept blade doesn't come poking through the sides of the sheath with disastrous results! The top edge of the galvanized is flared-out so you can't push the blade between it and the leather. The galvanized is u-shaped and is a tight fit between the welt and the front edge of the sheath. Nothing holds it in but tightness and friction. |
#2
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Good looking bunch of sheaths Mike. Thanks for sharing and for posting front and back pics.
Couple of question on this one - what gauge galvanized did you use? Also any problems with chemical reaction at the cut edges of the metal? I've never used it on sheaths but I've seen it happen at times on saddle seats when doing repairs. I have had some makers tell me that it's due to the tannic acid in the leather but don't know more than that. Also your sewing is excellent. Is it machine or hand? Usually I can tell, but can't quite tell with these pics (there's nothing wrong with the images - probably just my old wore out eyes! ). Whichever it's fine work. (For those who have never tried it - machine sewing can be as difficult to get a good even stitch if not even more so than doing it by hand, especially on small items like sheaths) __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#3
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Thanks Chuck for your kind words. I've got some more to throw on the site but I'll spread 'em out a bit.
The galvanized is just old "ductwork" stuff of a guage I don't know. If you really need a gauge I can measure the stuff in ins or mms. I don't know if there is any reactions with the steel's edge as I can't see it and it's in there to stay. Yep all my sheaths are handsewn - and down in a groove of course. I've got a pic of my home-made gouge to show too and I hope you'll like it. The blade wore out years ago on my shop-bought parallel gouge and I'm too lazy (& cheap?) to buy a new one. I'll explain the process when I post the pic. Yes I'll bet I'd be all over the place if I tried a sewing machine! I'll stick to two needles and a 1/16" drill ! Mike T. |
#4
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You're welcome and also welcome to the forum.
Glad you're posting because you've got a lot to offer. With 22 years at sheathmaking your second in line behind me (42 years crafting leather) and the Granddaddy of us all of course is Sandy Morrissey with 57 years at it (he just turned 80!). Course as I like to say it ain't necessarily the years it's the mileage! Please post your gouge pictures and an explanation in the Sheath Forum as I know there are lots of do-it yourselfers who lurk there. Measured a piece of duct work I have on hand and it looks to be about 22 or 24 gauge. I'm pretty old fashioned so I still use and awl along with two needles and linen thread. Never could get the hang of using a drill. Of course most of my work is all 18th/19th century repro so it's only fitting. Which brings to mind have you thought about using rawhide as a liner for stuff like this? Once it's dry it is like iron! I've used a stitcher on and off and keeping that sucker straight is an art in itself. Speaking of which Sandy decided awhile back to give his ole hands a rest and uses a machine now and his stitching is gorgeous (guess old dogs can learn new tricks). He sent me some pics of his most recent work so as soon as I can get them scanned I'll share them here with everybody. Well got work on the bench waiting for me... Chuck __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#5
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Very nice work Mike. Your talent is very obvious.Clean lines and perfect stitching.Neat idea on the steel, hope it works out.I recently did two large fillet knife sheaths.Lots of stitching.While I tend to do more embellished sheaths, I still find yours to be exceptional.I am a mere rookie compared to Sandy, Chuck and you.I've only been doing this for about 9 years.Dave
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#6
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The angle of the dangle----
Mike, my friend---As I have said before, "Class will tell", and the picture of that sheath tells volumes about the skills of the maker. It has been a while since I have made any danglers. I love the looks of them and how easily the blade can be tucked away when sitting or driving. But, sad to say, they bug the hell out of me when they flop around. The metal liner will certainly resist the blade penetrating the sheath and I do not believe would cause any problems unless you were constantly around salt water. Many years ago I used a heavier guage galvanized metal plate in the throat area of holsters of the Border Patrol type. I have seen some of them survive over 20 years of police service and never exhibited any problems. I make around 50 to 70 fillet knife sheaths a year and have not had problems with the blade puncturing the sheath. About half are for straight blades and they do not present much of a problem. The other half are the swept or trailing point blades. Due to the inherent length of a fillet blade these present an ever present danger of penetration in the spine of the sheath. An exposed razor at this point can easily sever tendons in one's fingers. In the sheath for the trailing point, extra width is necessary in order to accommadate the depth of the blade plus the trail. This makes for a rather sloppy fit and actually begs to be punctured. I have solved (to a moderate degree) this problem by making a leather washer the thickness or slightly greater than the blade spine and fix it inside the sheath so that the spine rests on the washer. Adjust the size of the washer and its location inside the sheath so that the blade tip is prevented from touching the fold of the sheath when the knife is inserted. I use a Chicago screw that goes through both sides of the sheath and the enclosed washer and secure with lock-tite. To this date I have had good results with this method and have received no complaints. I make most all of my sheaths using 7/8 oz double shoulders and if the blade is over 7" long I often sew a full length stiffener on the back of the sheath. This is sewn approximately 1/2" from the sheath fold on one side and the other side is sewn together with the raw edge of the sheath and the welt. This can be integral with the belt loop an makes a very neat looking job. Mike, I am pleased to welcome you and your expertise to this forum. It has been my pleasure to share the replys to this thread with two gentlemen that I am pleased to consider some of my very dearest friends. It all started through our love for leatherwork and mutual interest in passing the knowledge we have gained amongst us that surpasses a century. The strange part of this friendship is the fact that we have NEVER met. It is my fervent hope that someday I can shake the hands of Dave Cole and Chuck Burrows--- Sandy
__________________ Martin (Sandy) Morrissey Master Leather Craftsman 1105 Stephens Road Blairsville, GA 30512 706-379-1621 |
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