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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Blade design question from newbee
Hi
I have been working for some time on a small folding knife designed to comply with the strict EDC laws here in the UK. (Non locking folder with sub 3 inch blade) I have read alot of your posts and tutorials and have learned enough to make a couple of fully working prototypes. I would like to say how I appreciate the time you take and effort you make to publish your knowledge on this forum. I do now have a question for which I can find no answer, so your advice would be appreciated: My first prototypes have used a thumbstud for one hand opening but I want to replace this with an opening hole. As the blade is so small (3" cutting edge 1" deep 1/8" thick with a full flat grind) I am thinking of milling a hole but not going right through, I may also angle the cutter to make the hole deeper near the spine of the blade. The cutter will be about 2/3" diameter with .02" radius on the corners. The remaining thickness at the bottom of the hole would be about .04" My question is: Will this cause any problem with the heat treat, cracking or warping? I will be probably be using D2 or 154cm. Thanks Mike |
#2
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There should be no problem with the heat treat from a hole such as you described. However, the chances of having a problem will be much higher with D2 than with 154CM.
Welcome to our forum Mike .... |
#3
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I dont see any problem with what you describe. Just be careful on how thin the material is after machining the hole.
Welcome aboard! __________________ Zen R. ZCR Knives West Central Connecticut |
#4
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The 0.020" radius on your cutter should prevent cracking when heat treated.
Let us see the results. |
#5
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Thanks for all your advice.
I will stick to 154cm I will show pictures when finished but it might take some time, Family and work means I dont get alot of time for tinkering in the shed! Regards Mike |
#6
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Stick with the 154CM and you won't have a problem
__________________ When you are flat on your back, the only place you have too look is up!! WEAR THAT Dust Mask |
#7
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Hi
I havent got round to trying the opening hole but here are some pictures of my first prototypes, which are the first two knives I have made. Your comments (both good and bad) would be appreciated. |
#8
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Those are a couple of *very* nice looking knives! Everything about them is impressive - fit, finish, geometry, etc. What is especially interesting to me is the way you constructed the backspring. That is, in a word, "awesome". I love it! You took the idea of a slipjoint, and completely modernized it! I've never seen such a thing - but perhaps I'm just being ignorant.
There's a few things that I think could be improved, but you're probably already painfully aware of those. The screw depth on the threaded side so that it's flush to the handle, etc. But these are minor things that don't impact functionality. All in all nice work! Do you mind if I use a couple of your ideas for some of my knives? __________________ Kurt Huhn pipecrafter@pipecrafter.com http://www.pipecrafter.com |
#9
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Man, that's a surprise!
Beautiful new lock design, and a very nice knife! |
#10
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That is nice work. I think I saw a similar lock design on some A.G. Russel knives ....
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#11
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If that's what you produce in your shed, I want to get a shed like yours!
If you want to part with one of those prototypes, just let me know! Excellent work, with a backspring design that's completely new to me. I've never seen anything like it, but it seems so intuitive I can't understand why it hasn't been done before. Brilliant! Just for giggles, I would make at least one hole in the handle to be nicely chamfered so it could be used as a cigar cutter. That would be totally funny and cool. When you say you're looking to make a partial hole through for an opener, are you considering changing the shape of the spine like the Spyderco knife? If so, may I recommend you put some traction notches on the spine when you do it. __________________ When reason fails... |
#12
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To Pipecrafter: Please tell me every thing you think could be improved, I will probably be aware of most of them but I am on a steap learning curve and everything helps. Dont pull any punches. Please feel free to use my ideas, just send me a photo.
To Ray Rogers: AG Russels one hand opening knife is the closest thing I could find to my design, I have contacted him and it is not close enough to cause a problem. To VaughnT What is the diameter of a cigar? I wouldnt change the shape of the blade spine though I might make the whole blade a bit deeper. The opening hole will be mostly covered by the handle when closed, opening the knife is achieved by pressing the finger guard and finishing the opening with the hole as it comes clear of the handle. So you can have an opening hole without the ugly blade shape. I guess by traction notches you mean Jimping, In answer to your question, I am trying to keep things simple so probably no. |
#13
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Man those things are awesome! Did you mill them or use an EDM? Super clean lines.
__________________ Zen R. ZCR Knives West Central Connecticut |
#14
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Great looking knives.....I wouldn't change anything...........carl
__________________ carl |
#15
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Quote:
It's small stuff, but stuff that (in my opinion) takes a really nice knife like this and puts it in the category of "incredible". The first thing I noticed was the threaded side of the screws at the back of the handle. On one knife they appear flush, but on the other knife they're slightly recessed below the surface. In my opinion, I think they should be finished flush. The head side of those same screws are counterbored fairly deep. This isn't "incorrect", but I would rather see them counterbored just enough to put the head a hair below the surface. That way it will appear flush to the surface, and it won't be a jarring difference from one side of the knife to the other. Try to keep things as symmetrical as possible. The other possibility, and one that I personally would opt for, is to use shorter screws, and have them only screw into the backspacer halfway. That way you get a screw head on either side of the knife and things look much more uniform. I would also counterbore the pivot screw in the same fashion. It's just a cleaner look on a knife like this where every other screw is finished flush or counterbored just below the surface. Whether you use a pivot with two screws, or one with a single screw and a press fit to the other side is up to you. Either way I'd try to get the heads flush. The backspring also jumped out at me - both in a good way and bad. First, I'll reiterate that it's an absolutely incredible arrangement, and I fully intend to make use of that idea at some point. What I noticed is that the resting position of the spring is different whether the blade is opened or closed. This isn't to much of an impact on functionality, but just one of those small details that people like me notice. Overall, however, I have to hand it to you. This is a great pair of knives! I'm very impressed with you initial efforts, and I can't wait to see what you come up with next. __________________ Kurt Huhn pipecrafter@pipecrafter.com http://www.pipecrafter.com |
Tags |
apply, art knife, awesome, back, blade, cleaning, design, etch, folder, folding knife, guard, heat treat, knife, knives, liner lock, make, making, problem, sand, sharpening, steel, stencil, thumbstud |
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