If you built a new Gas Fore you would ???

[Ron Hicks]

The forge I have now is OK but want to make a longer Forge . I was thinking about building it the same way only longer - force air burnner blowing under a floor to heat a 6 X 6 X 16 chamber and loads of K wool 2 or 3 in. and all the coatings with a door to anneal blades.
This is the only Forge I have used and not sure If theres a better way to go and have a few ideas & ?
Should I make the heat chamber like the inside of a gourd everthing rounded and necking down to the opening ? Would this help hold the heat inside? Whats the best shape?
How about Burnners forced air the best way to go with a floor for even heat ?
How would you do it?
Looking for input
Ronnie

[Ed Caffrey]

For my two cents...round forges are the only way to go. They are very simple to build, heat much more evenly than designs that have square or retangle chambers. and are much easier to repair when/if that time arrives.
Next, don't think that more Ka-wool is better. Often times it's not. Coatings? Coating are great for stiffening the ka-wool, but if your looking for more heat refection, then I think ITC-100 is the best thing going. I did some tests before and after it's application. In my forge the ITC-100 accounted for an extra 700F at the same settitngs.

For a general purpose forge I personally like a round horizontal version......for welding up damascus, I use an oval shaped forge, sitting vertically. I took an 18" piece of 12" pipe, split it down each side and added 6". Doing so narrowed down the width while giving me 16" of space from front to back. The payoff is that there is less space to heat up and maintain temp, so I use less fuel, while still being able to heat a 12-15" billet with no probelms.

Types and styles are really personal preference, but I honestly believe that the more simple you can design/construct it, the better off you are. Where forges are concerned, nothing is more true than the old saying... "The more you overtake the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain!"

[azmike]

Yes. as i got started i first did some burners--the shell is 12"x 24", horizonal, i matched 3 burners and it kicks --. but, since i finished it jan, i found it way more than i needed (still need most of the tools and practice). I put together a "coffeecan", with bellyband support tacked to a 1/4" plate and mounted on 3" stand. it works good, and uses way less gas, and the other one is there if (when) i get to that point in this.
Ed, you are correct on the "simple" forge. less expense, less downtime and safer.
mike

[DiamondG Knives]

I have a forge question Id like your imput on Also.

Couple of years ago, when I thought bigger was better, I built an upright forge. The interior demensions were 28" deep, 16" wide, and 24" door to door. It was a monster!
Fuel consumption was a bear, and although I could get welding heats, it just wasnt feasable.

Now I am in the process of making a semi horizontal foge from it with castable.
I put a false floor in it out of steel plate and poured 3" of Mizou 3000. the floor is 2" below my door opening. I will form and pour 3" walls, and then a 3" top. The burner tube comes in from the back and will swirl around the oblong chamber.

My question is this. Do you think it would be a hindrance or a help to put a free standing "pedestal" for lack of a better word in the middle of the forge to set your work on? This will be level with the bottom of thforge door, and the flame will still be able to swirl around it. Was thinking of just setting a brick the right size in there to try it out.

Ive only poured the floor, so if anyone has any suggestions, or see a potential problem, Id be glad to hear it.

Thanks and God Bless
Mike

[Sweany]

Forge gallery

there are as many ways to build a forge as there are smiths.

material at hand seems to be a determining factor.
If you use kwool use some rigidizer on it. It helps keep your air clear makes the fiber last longer and makes any coating you apply stick better.


My .02

[plain ol Bill]

Mike this is just MY opinion bud. I would not put the piece in the center. I think it will disrupt the gas flow and cause uneven heating. If you can set a fire brick in there and remove it easily I would give it a try however. How high off the floor is the roof or top of the forge?

[Ed Caffrey]

Mike,
I agree with Bill....don't do it! I tried the very same thing, but I was dumb enough to mold the brick (sitting one end) into the floor of the forge. I wasted about $50 worth of castable because I had to bust it out of there, and then re-pour the floor.
It didn't/doesn't seem like the brick would make much difference in how the forge performs, but it makes a huge difference. With the brick in there is disrupts the flame path, and with it my forge wouldn't make welding heat. Without the brick the same forge easily reaches welding heat and beyond.

If I need a shelf inside the forge, I just use an old piece of 1/4" X 2" mild steel laid across the inside length of the forge and lay the work in it.

[DiamondG Knives]

Thats just what I needed to know!!! Thanks you both Bill and Ed.

Bill the depth from ceiling to floor is going to be around 6"-8". As is, the roof will be around 1.5 - 2 inches above the top of the door, does it need to be higher/lower?
I origanly liked the idea of having the bottom of my door at the same level as my floor, but fear the flame wouldnt swirl as well, so I left the area from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the forge at about 2" The length door to door will be around 16"-18" long. Anyone think that the ends should be a bit thicker since the flame will be swirling off of them?

Sorry for all the questions, but like Ed said, its easy to spend $$$$ on castable to not have it work.

Thanks for all your input!!

God Bless
Mike

[Ron Hicks]

Ed would you mind to post pictures of your forges?
So what I need is a 12 in pipe shell 19 inches long 3 in. insulation 2 forced air burnners mounted on the side to swirl the heat around instead of it blowing in from the end? Something like this http://home.flash.net/~dwwilson/forge/plan1.gif
Thanks Ron

[plain ol Bill]

Mike the top of the door opening on my forge is flush w/ the roof and the depth is 14 - 16 inches and I have 14" from door to door. It works well for me. However ---- the next forge I make I want to drop the door so it will be closer to the floor but not in the path (across from or in line with) the initial fire swirl from the burner. My thinking is: Heat rises, so if the heat goes to the top of the forge and builds up and has to come down to get out the door I think it will give me a better and more even heat. This is one of those "ya gotta try it to find out" things so I will do it w/ the next one.
As far as thicker castable on the ends - not needed Mike. The gas flow is hot but not abrasive so it doesn't really wear.

[DiamondG Knives]

Thanks for the input Bill,
It sure is nice to hear the voice of experieance!
'On having a higher cieling, thats my thoughts. If you have a layer of super heated air at the top of your forge, it has to help! Im thinking that by having my door up off the floor enough for the flame swirl to clear, and have the top of the door an inch or so from the ceiling, I will get the optimum of both. At least I hope I do!!

Ill keep you posted on how it works.

God Bless
Mike

[Ron Hicks]

I can run my forced air at a consant 1450 or higher
With the naturally asperated burner do you have controll over the heat or do they run at 1 temp.?.

How do you like your forge running hot 1850 and just watch the color or do like it to hold a lower consant temp and let it soak a little ?

What are the pros and cons of the 2 burners ?

Should they both be set to swrill the flame around the shell ? How far back from the opening
should the burnner be?

Thanks Ron

[jonwelder]

Dear Friends, If these pictures post: I made my forge as Ed said, round tube laid on it's side, fan forced air through the side, top tangental entry. My only parameters were the size of the tube (12") and the floor (3 fire bricks end to end 18") I have 2" of kaowool sides which come down and meet the bricks, accually the bricks hold the kaowool in place and I use 2 bricks on the ends for doors. All of this can be easily replaced if needed, the brick doors can be opened or closed depending on the size of steel forged. This forge easily makes welding heat and I have added sliding tube holders to keep my billet "handles" level while heating and I also have an "air door" fan on the end where I work to blow heat up and away from me. Any dripping flux ends up on the fire brick and is easily scrapped away, I use no other lineing material at this time (ISO-100 ect) the fan is a 25CMF and is half blocked when running, it does not use much fuel as a 100 LB tank lasts for more than 6 months of frequent use. Ed, I wanted to meet you at "Blade" but with all the "activity" at the table I shared, I was not able to get time away.. (you guys that know, can stop laughing now, Ron, Kevin, Mike!!) I hope these pictures will help, or just add to all the confusion! ---jon

[jonwelder]

I guess I only get one at a time! --here is another!--jon

[jonwelder]

One last picture from the corner, shows the side and most of the front, note the adjustable holders for the handles and fire brick floor and doors. easy to replace (if dropped, I know!)-pipe for burner is 1-1/2" with 1/8" pipe/gas injector.----jon