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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Help with scale chipping?
Hello all, l am new to the forum and I have a problem with my Rosewood scales chipping at the front edge of the scales where they meet the ricasso when I put it in and out of a sheath. Any ideas on how to stabilize this Area? I plan to just wax the handle for a finish.
Thanks in advance, rusty rat |
#2
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From what material is the sheath made? I assume kydex as i can't imagine it chipping against a leather sheath. If kydex try to heat the very edge of the opening with a heat gun and flair the edge out a bit so when the knife is inserted the front edge of the handle doesn't contact or snag the edge of the kydex.
__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#3
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Rosewood is usually quite soft as you seem to be discovering. Try what Goater suggested for this knife but the next time you use rosewood have it professionally stabilized by K&G or WSSI. After that, it will me much tougher.
Really oily rosewood is very soft and cannot be stabilized but a nice dry piece definitely can be.... |
#4
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Actually it is a leather sheath. I bought the scales as a stabilized set. The front of the scales are very square which I want, but yup definitely a soft wood, I didn't know.
Is using super glue and option? I guess I could taper the front of the scales some, but I really would prefer not to have to do that. I used acetone to degrease the scales before the epoxy and that seemed to work now I just need to find a solution to this and still have the wax option finish. Do you all think tapering the front of the scales will solve the problem? Thanks for the quick replies , RR |
#5
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sounds like youre visual preference is conflicting with the functional.
bevel/taper the front edge of the scales. thatll fix the problem issues. id suggest this on any knife with or without bolsters. beveling that front edge will save unnecessary wear on both knife and sheath weather using bolsters or not. |
#6
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Quote:
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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Thanks all, I think I'll have to taper the edge. You are correct, I should have mentioned there is no bolster. Definitely a form vs function issue.
I'm very glad to be a member here and will try and contribute when I can, but I am a true newbie. Thanks for taking the time to reply. RR |
#8
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tapering the front will help....don't worry about being a newbie we all start somewhere.....look up my first thread ....I know the guys that were here remember that one LOL
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#9
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Quote:
Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city Posts: 1,054 All but ^50^ of those posts was in that one thread! __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#10
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HAHA Yeh I remember that long one.....I ve come SO FAR since then....THANKS TO ALL OF YOU GUYS!!! All of the advice was extremely help full but if you actually sat down and read all that it shows just how amazingly patient all of you were with me.....more patience than I have with myself that's for sure!
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#11
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Rusty,
Super Glue isn't really an option as it is a fairly soft finish. You say the rosewood was already stabilized. I'd like to know if that was professionally stabilized - meaning you bought the wood from one of the major knife supply houses or if the wood came from some home stabilizing outfit such as you might find on eBay ... |
#12
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I have never had any wood chip especially with just going in and out of the sheath even a kydex sheath. Something sounds "OFF" there is no way a leather sheath should be chipping a stabilized piece of wood. Just doesn't sound right
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#13
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Possible grain alignment? Like the scales cut cross grain instead of longitudinal? Makes no sense wood would chip like that rubbing against the neck of a leather sheath, even if it isn't tapered. Unless it was cut cross grain in which case you could likely flick off with a fingernail.
__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#14
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Hey all, mystery solved, I'm an idiot and can't read apparently. I did buy these at one of the large blade suppliers and they were cut correctly. They list a ton of different woods, but only specifically note their various burls as stabilized. I assume then that all the rest are not. This Rosewood is so soft I can dent it with my thumbnail.
So as a follow up question, does snakewood and desert Ironwood need to be Stabilized? Sorry to waste your time, I feel stupid. Now the question is just live with it or knock them off and replace them. Thoughts? Thanks again when you all said something isn't right, I looked deep knowing you all couldn't be wrong. RR |
#15
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Snakewood and ironwood are not usually stabilized. But, as long as they are not obviously oily they can be stabilized. I learned the hard way that it is a good idea to stabilize even something as dense as ironwood if it was going to be used in a hot, moist environment (like a kitchen) .....
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Tags |
advice, art, blade, bolster, edge, finish, gun, handle, heat gun, how to, knife, kydex, leather, leather sheath, made, material, newbie, problem, rat, rosewood, scale, scales, sheath, wax, wood |
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