Now what for the pivot.....

[DaveL]

This is just a question of interest. What is your choice and why for the pivot pin. I was taught to use brass or nickel silver rod and reallly have not moved much past that. I have one friend that always uses 1/8 inch stock and reams his knife hole to a little larger than .125. He then strikes the pin with a polished ball pien to spread it into this larger hole. His knives are always tight by the way. But curious minds will always ask. And that is the above question. I know there are other and possibly better ways to do it.

[Chris_Crawford]

Most makers try to use the same material for their pins as they do for their bolsters. This allows you to peen the pin into place without the pin showing. (In most cases... You know what I'm talking about. ) I use nickel silver or brass for my bolsters and liners, so I use the same for my pins. Stainless pins are harder and will hold up longer, but they are also harder to peen into place. I do ream out the pin holes a little before putting the pins in. This keeps the pins from working out once they are peened into place because each end of the pin is bigger than the center. -chris

[titaniumdoctor]

Is your question regarding the pivot or the handle pins??? I gather the pivot. I use oil impregnated bronze for the pivot. I work in a tool shop and the wear plates for our dies are made from this so I hock a plate and cut off a piece, stick it in the lathe and make it round. I make my pivots 3/16 dia. I ream my blade and liners 3/16. I like this material because it is very tough very wear resistant and has excelent lubricity. You can buy this stuff in round stock from McMaster Carr. Hope this helps.

Doc.

[Ed Caffrey]

On slipjoint folders their are basically two schools of thought.....one is using the same pivot pin material as all other pins in the knife to ensure everything matches. Secondly is taking into consideration the durability of the pivot pin. Obviously the pivot pin is going to receive the most use/abuse and should be made of something very durable......those that follow this line of thinking usually use 416 for all the pins, and will harden the pivot pin in an attempt to make it more durable.

Personally, I prefer to assemble folders with screws. This gives me the ability to utilize whatever I want (in the way of toughness) for the pivot. Right now I use either bronze or 416 bushings for my folder pivots. My method is to use a busing with 1/4" OD and 1/8" ID. The bushing is left about a thousandth thicker than the blade, with the pivot screws being tightened down all the way. The blade pivots on the OD of the bushing. This does two things.... 1. It creates a very smooth open/closing motion, and 2. You can adjust tightness and side play according to how much thicker you leave the bushing than the blade.