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  #31  
Old 02-24-2013, 09:40 AM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imakethings View Post
Last question, completion date?
I believe it is in the OP, but if not I will add it. It is the last day of April. I figure if someone can't find the time to complete a knife in 2 1/2 months they probably never will. If it had been up to me it would have been the last day of march. Some thought that too soon.

So last day of April is the completion date for the KITH.
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  #32  
Old 02-25-2013, 12:06 PM
scox scox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricky_arthur View Post
J dale, we would love to have ya join in. I'm lucky I guess, I can pretty regularly find several hours a day to work on knives. Most knives that means I can finish in 2-4 days. I have about 6 knives on order too, but some are waiting for materials (damascus) and the rest are in no hurry so I can divert my attention for a few days.


The decisions on this one are killing me tho. Knowing it is going to someone here has changed my thought process. Most of the time it is easy, make it exactly how I want to. On this one I have to think, ok what if it goes to someone with big hands or in the case of my current handle choice what if they are left handed. etc.

Here is about the 4th handle configuration I have worked up. I think I like this one, it is only in the rough. The butt end will have a steel cap. The wood will be lighter, I just put a little color on it to see if I liked a darker wood with the antler. I'll sand it off and leave it light.





I also am trying to decide if I want to remake the broken guard(here worked down to a usable one) with steel and have the C guard like I planned, or leave the brass guard.
I think that looks pretty good the way it is. Maybe the other guard would look better, maybe not. Guess I would have to see them both, but I like your handle choice.
The blade profile I sketched out looks kinda similar to yours, I'm just waiting for the steel to arrive.

Shane
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  #33  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:20 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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Progress today. I decided to go thru with my plan to make a C guard. So It was 2 steps back to go one step forward, but I'm glad I did.

I forged (well, shaped on the anvil) it out of 1095. It took me over an hour to get it shaped like I wanted it. But it was not without a cost so to speak. All the Forging had pinched my guard hole narrower, and I slipped it on the blade for a final fit check while it was red hot. When It cooled it would not come off. I had to tap it off with the hammer, which dinged up my ricasso on the sides.

I decided that trying to sand out the dings would narrow the ricasso too much and ruin my guard fit, so I further "distressed" the area and will sand blast it after heat treat but leave it rough. It least that's the plan if I like it.

I also changed the Handle for the 5th time. I decided to go with a buffalo horn with the antler, and I think I finally like it. It is only roughed out in the pictures.

a pic or two of the new guard and handle



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  #34  
Old 02-25-2013, 09:32 PM
Imakethings Imakethings is offline
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I'm going to be doing a kukri (if you didn't already know), only question I have is how thick should I make the blade? I've also chosen to follow with the average measurements for a kukri and make it 18 inches long, so thoughts and ideas?
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  #35  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:00 PM
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The kukris I have seen were on the thick side, I would think 3/16-1/4
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  #36  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:08 PM
Imakethings Imakethings is offline
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1/4 seems right, I'll go for that.
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:06 AM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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The kukuri from Nepal I sharpened for a friend was almost 1/2" thick at the spine and had a slight almost hollow grind but I mean slight.

Ricky that knife is looking really good! Can't wait to see the finished product


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  #38  
Old 02-26-2013, 11:03 AM
BfrancioS BfrancioS is offline
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Expert opinion needed

Just realized my design is a bit too long for my PID controlled homemade forge. It's a firebrick double propane torch design, ala Wayne Goodard. I was planning a hamon like my past knives. The forge holds temp at the thermocouple within 5 degrees F but just realized I have two problems:

1. Some of the handle (1 to 2 inches) will stick out of the forge during heat treat. On the positive side, the the propane torches DO put out enough heat to keep things at temp without closing the opening.

2. The forge has a sweet spot where I put the thermocouple. it is right between the two torches blowing into the forge. In the past I was able to keep the cutting area of the blade in this sweet spot and was fairlyy confident in my heat treat temps. Outside that area, the steel gets visibly brighter/hotter. That won't be possible here, the blade is too long. I am worried about the tip of the blade getting burnt. Can't see any way to keep the tip and forward blade section out of the propane flame at the backend of the forge.

I.E. Using my setup, I am worried about warping and uneven heat treat on this long blade.

Any suggestions: I might be able to slip a thin rectanglar mild steel tube into the forge, with a hole to allow the thermo in, and then place the blade into the tube during heat treat. Will this shield the blade from the propane flame and equalize temps enough to allow me to get a good heat treat?

The desgin has exceeded the size of my on hand materials and I just ordered materials, wider thicker W2 and stainless for the fittings. This was BEFORE thinking about size restrictions in the forge. The project is getting more coslty than anticipated and would prefer NOT to rebuild my forge.


HELP!???

Barry
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  #39  
Old 02-26-2013, 11:36 AM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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Barry, I have a similar situation. I'm not an expert but I can maybe help, My knife is also at the outside edge of what My Forge can heat. However, I have used it on knives this size before. Your Idea of a baffle to even out the heat will probably help, but it mat not be necessary.

One thing to remember, it is not necessary (or even desirable sometimes) to heat treat your handle area. What I do is simply move the blade (from one side to the other in the forge)alot as it is coming to temp, I use 1084 so soak time is minimal. Then as it gets close I will actually just hold it in the tongs and keep it moving so that it all gets to a uniform color.

To avoid warping, make sure you normalize and anneal before you coat your blade (if that is your method of creating a hamon.)

All that said, you can always reduce the size of your knife a little so that it fits your equipment. It would be best to make the biggest knife you can make well, then to make the biggest knife you can make.

ETA, I measured my blade against some of the other larger knives I have made and was suprised that this will actually be the longest one I have tried...but only by about 1/2 inch.

Good luck and post progress pics so we can all see how everyone is doing.

Last edited by ricky_arthur; 02-26-2013 at 12:06 PM.
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  #40  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:37 PM
BfrancioS BfrancioS is offline
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Rick,
Had not considered just moving the blade while it's in the forge!!!??! I might be making this too complex. Will try that before investing in any baffle material. Thanks!

Was planning to aneal and run through a few normalizing cycles to reduce grain size.
This blade will be 100% stock removal. I need a proper anvil before any more forging attempts, the back of my vise is getting all beat up. The steel will be from Aldo but I will still run through the process.


Here is my desgin, it's gonna be a challenge. I'm trying a few more new technques than would be considered wise for a 5th knife...

Blade is 7 inches
About 12 inch for a total length.

I am using some sun bleached elk antler given to me by a relative in Wyoming. Owe him a knife from it.

I've dyed the antler segment, turned out well. Solid black color for about 1/4 inch and then grey to the black core. I'm now waitng for other materials to arrive. I broke down and orderd some proper quench oil, parks 50. We'll see how this turns out.

I do plan on posting some WIP pics once I get going.


Barrry
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  #41  
Old 02-26-2013, 01:40 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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The design looks very good. Your forge should easily heat treat a blade that size.

I have had only limited success dying antler, what did you use? Can you post a pic of it? Usually sun bleached also means cracks, which can be a problem. If you find It won't work I might have a piece of elk antler that you could use.


My shed hunting season starts next week. I live for shed hunting as much as the real hunt these days.

You are probably like me in that I try to do something on each knife I have never done before. It's part of whats fun. For the one I'm making, the C guard was the "new" element. I didn't dare try too much new on a KITH knife. Plus, i'm running out of new things to try that I can do with my current equipment. A recurved blade like yours, I have not tried. HMMMM

Last edited by ricky_arthur; 02-26-2013 at 01:43 PM.
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  #42  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:08 PM
BfrancioS BfrancioS is offline
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Rick,

Here is the dyed antler, a sanded end, and a pic of the orig rack.








I used leather dye, from the local Tandy leather shop. Its the Fiebling oil dye, NOT the newer water based stuff. I put it in a vacuum chamber (3 inch diameter pipe with end caps) and applied vacuum to about 24 in/hg with a hand pump, then let it sit for a couple of hours, reapplying vacuum every so often. I then relased the vacuum and let it sit some more, then hit it with about 100 psi for an hour. I've read that the pressure does not do much but I want this as black as I could.

No cracks in these antlers. I was told it was a found shed eld antler but there are saw marks and fur on the end. This antler and a white tale used on my fist 3 knives are my only expereince. I am not a hunter.

I am happy with the results, but 4 days after doing this, the porus core is still wet. That sanded section went black again after about 15 minute just from dye seeping from the core. I hope it dries before I need to apply epoxy. The oil in the dye will interfere with that.

Please ignore the "swirls" on the handle in the pictured drawing. Did not want to post that yet. I've done similar things with wood but am not sure how it will work or look with the antler. Will be testing that with a carved piece of 2x4 while I await materails.

Barry
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  #43  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:37 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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looks very good in the picture, almost like stag. I will have to get some leather Dye. maybe RIT would work?
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  #44  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:58 PM
BfrancioS BfrancioS is offline
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RIT is a water based dye. If you force the dye in with vaccum, be sure to let it dry thoroughly for a long period of time. You don't want water in the finished handle. Try a test peice...

I tried oil based wood stain a few months back on a scrap antler piece. The color was not as deep and I did not want to use it on an actual knife b/c wherever I read about the technique suggested leather dye. I was unsure about the long term durability of something I don't have a second opinion on.

This time around, I already had the leather dye from sheath making on previous knives but found I needed to get another bottle to fully submerge the antlter in my vacuum pipe. 2 bottles would be about $14 from my local leather store. The excess got poured back in the bottles, I don't expect to buy any more black leather dye for quite awhile.
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  #45  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:30 PM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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I wonder what it would be like mixing RIT dye with alcohol?


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