Advantages of various types of sheaths.

[bgmills]

Is there a rule of thumb, so to speak, about what size holes to punch and the length of cut between the two? Obviously, it would depend on the stud diameter, I assume. Is there a set formula? Thanks for the replies.

Bill

[sheathmaker]

If you are using the commonly available studs ie. Leather factory/Tandy etc. then a number 8 punch is the correct size for the hole, and i use a number 1 Exacto blade for the slot.

Paul

[MtMike]

Good point Paul -- now that everyone's clear on what size holes to punch and slits to cut, we should point out that there are different sizes and styles of studs available One of my favorites is the same size as the ones pictured here (or very close), but has a flatter head (top set in picture below). The only place I've ever seen it for sale was Ohio Bag.

Mike

[bgmills]

I"m still not sure how long the slit distance should be between the #8 punched holes. Is it twice the diameter of the stud head? Excuse me if I have missed something obvious. Also, thanks for taking the time to respond to simplistic questions.

Bill

[sheathmaker]

Whoa!!!!STOP!!!! THERE ARE NOT TWO NUMBER 8 HOLES!!!! Only one.....and I do not punch a second smaller hole at the other end of the slot, Punch the number 8 hole at the predtermined location via test fitting and then cut the slot ( I use a number 1 Exacto blade in an Exacto knife). this slot is cut on the upstream side (toward the sheath) to a length of about 1/4" to 5/16" from the edge of the hole. When you get through it should resemble a button hole. When tension is put on the strap the stud should be bearing on the outside edge of the number 8 hole and not on the slit. Please take another look at the picture I posted and pay particular attention to the slot.

Paul

[bgmills]

Sheathmaker,

Thanks for the reply! I went back and saw the photo you posted previously, and sure enough there is only one hole! Like I said, thank you for answering simplistic questions. And by the way, your work takes a back seat to no one!

Bill

[Sandy Morrissey]

In byegone days, Sam Browne studs were different than those in service now. The old stud had a post extending from the base of the stud and which went through the leather. A washer was then placed over the post which was then peened over the washer. These were extremely strong and I have never seen one that was "wore out". The present day stud has a hole in the shank and a tapered, capped post is driven into the hole to set it in place. I have seen the stud split on several occasions with this set-up. I have no idea as to where I can get the older studs but would like to if any out there might know where they could be found.

There were two different size studs used on the older Sam Bowne belts that used the crossover shoulder strap which is rare in todays world. The smaller stud was used on the belt itself and was used to prevent the buckle from backing off the hook which captured the buckle bar when fastened. The buckle, itself, was kept on the end of the belt with the length adjustment holes, and adjusted to the wearer's waist size. When putting the belt on the buckle was slipped over the hook, leather tip pushed over the retention stud and you were in business. The larger studs (2) was used to fasten the crossover strap to "D" rings mounted to the front and back of the wearer, crossing the strap over one shoulder. This shoulder was generally the one opposite the side on which the wearer carried either his sidearm or a saber. I notice that some leather craft suppliers do carry the smaller studs and the Sam Browne belt buckles but do not seem to carry the hooks. In order to make a typical Sam Browne belt, the hook is a necessity.

Isn't trivia a hoot? Sandy

[Any Cal.]

I just got a couple of the small screwback studs from Tandy. I like the shape of them, with a larger ball and thinner shaft, but the large head on the screw is simply awful. It might be OK on thicker leather, but I am going to have to figure out what to do w/ it. I may end up sanding it down thinner on the brass ones. Have to look for the press in backs, as they seem to lay a lot flatter. The screw in should work for now though.