Mark or Etch

[hosana]

I just received my Personalizer and did a few attempts with the sample stencil. I'm waiting for my logo from IMG. Using the directions that came with the unit, I'm getting clean marks and logos. However, I'm not getting what I expected. I was hoping for the letters to appear black when finished. Can anyone tell me the steps to get a deep etch or mark that remains black? What steps should be taken to clean all parts including the stencil? Any other suggestions for using the personalizer? Any advise is welcome.

Thanks,
Mike

[fitzo]

Deep etching results from DC current. Black results from AC current, which removes steel and redeposits it as a black oxide. Thus, first you etch to your desired depth, then you blacken. How much each needs will depend on your steel, hardness, and electrolyte, both type and wetness. Your machine may have "etch" and "mark"; use them in that order to get the black at the end.

You will have to experiment and determine a set of typical conditions to get the results you desire, then repeat that every time.

You should use relatively short "strikes" and repeat as opposed to one long touch on the stencil with the electrode. It generates heat and gas. Too much gas will create bubbles that give ugly etches. Too much heat will cause your stencil to deform.

As for cleaning, a preferred method is to get one of those cheapo sonicators for jewelry cleaning and run it in there about 5 minutes, brush very gently, then rinse under water and leave to dry. You can also just clean it gently uunder running water with some mild soap and your fingers and rinse. There are two things that destroy stencils: first, metal and oxide particles clog the pores and less current gets through. The second is that prolonged use followed by rough cleaning erodes the edges of the stencil boundary and the etch gets less crisp with time. Many makers will use a stencil many times and say it's still fine; others will toss it after one use, saying there's no sense taking the chance of botching a knife up at the very last step with a muddy mark. Three things that affect longevity are the initial quality of the stencil (there are substantial differences between manufacturers and the 'top" versus "production" qualities most offer), the actual style of the font you've chosen, and the aggressiveness during use and cleaning.

Hope this helps a bit.

[hosana]

As for the felt, can I clean them or use them once and discard them? Also, for the stencil, can I just store them in an envelope?
Mike

[fitzo]

Toss the felt. Envelope should be fiine.

[Ray Rogers]

The felt can be used many times. I've been using the same set of stencils for about 8 years (about 24 stencils in the original order). The felt on my Etch-O-Matic gets replaced about once a year. All I ever do with the stencils or the felt is rinse carefully in cold water and pat it dry with a paper towel.

Fitzo's advice is right on. The Personalizer will definitely make a black mark. Even my cheapie Etch-O-Matic came with a few sheets of paper than explained how to get a clear mark or a black mark so I'm surprised that a professional machine like the Personalizer didn't .......

[hosana]

Thanks for the help. I've never had a problem that couldn't be solved by someone at this forum.
Mike

[Chris_Crawford]

Hey Mike,

I toss my felt after each use. You can go down to WalMart and get a square yard of white felt, which works great for etching, for a couple of bucks. You will be surprised at how long a yard of felt will last.

I've been having trouble getting my etches as black as I would like, and one solution that I have found is to take a Q-Tip dipped in Cold Blue and rub it around on your logo. This will leave the inside good and black. Take some fine grit sand paper and clean the Cold Blue from the surface, and you will be left with a nice dark mark. Cold Blue can also be purchase from the sporting goods department of WalMart.

Hope this helps. -chris

[jonwelder]

So How much could I expect to pay for a good stencil, like the ones from IMG? And does size (of the stencil) really matter? I'm considering etching my blades instead of stamping. --jon

[hosana]

Jon-
IMG has a $35 art fee and each sheet of stencils cost around $9. A sheet has 6 stencils on it and IMG can vary the sizes depending on the size knives that you make. They keep your stencil on file so that future copies can be made. Patricia is tops and nothing is finished until the customer is satisfied.
Mike

[TJ Smith]

I started with a personalizer.It was a little weak in my opinion. I replaced the transformer with the one Bob Warner used in his home made version. Cost about $12.00. Now I etch (DC) for2 strikes of 3 sec each and then mark (AC) for 6 sec. the personalizer was prone to leave a little shadow around the stencil as it took longer to etch and mark. Do a search for etching on the CKD
Take Care
TJ

[DC KNIVES]

I have to say that I like the stamp. The lines are always nice and crisp as well as relatively deep.I know stamping has its down sides though. The stamps are not cheap but used properly will hold up for years.It also means stamping before HT. Stamps can't be changed as readily as a stencil. To each his own but I will stick with the stamp.Dave

[fitzo]

I started with a stamp. I switched to stencils/etching. I'm happier that way.

Yes, to each his own.

[Dave Larsen]

I love the "stamp/etch" discussion. Because I came to custom knives in the 70s (when I discovered a lot of stuff), I'm a stamp traditionalist. But I do think etching has great advantages over the stamped logo. Even so, you'd have to pry my stamp out of my cold, dead fingers.

[R. D. Finch]

hosana

I purchased the personalizer a few years ago and like it better than the stamp. I clean the stencil and felt after every etch using the cleaner that came with the personalizer, then rinse off with water. I hold for 60 seconds and blacken for 30. Comes out clear. Pratice at several different times to get what you want.