Liner Lock stop pin ???

[Alain M-D]

I envisage to make my first folder (liner lock) soon.
The stop pin causes me some interrogations,
I think I have three possibilities...

In the Terzuola book, Terzuola uses a stop pin with smaller shoulders,
but I cannot make one without a lathe...

Some peoples use a normal stainless pin (hardened ?) with a press fit.
But I wonder if this solution can be usable with very thin linner
(I have 0,050" thick titanium) I am afraid that will not be solid enough...

I think that I can use a treaded standoffs (or a small folder pivot) with
a screw on each side. Do you think that can be rather solid ? With an
"flick open", there is much force applied to the stop pin ?

What you advise me?

Alain M-D
Http://www.amd.miville-deschenes.com

[Don Robinson]

I use the same pins for stops that I use for pivot pins. 1/8" or 3/16" straight pins with a #2-56 or 4-40 internal thread. These are sold as pivot pins.

Ream the hole to a close fit. Your .050" Ti is fine. The screws thru the bolsters will hold the pin. Don't worry about using a stainless steel stop pin. Stainless work hardens.

You'll find all the details in my book, "My Way" here.

http://home.rgv.rr.com/donrob/new_page_2.htm

[Ray Rogers]

Using a hollow pivot pin works fine as a stop bar but on a 'flick open' knife I prefer a solid bar, preferably hardened. The blade will generally be harder than even the hardest stop pin and I have had some get dented from snapping the blade open.

A press fit into a .050 liner will work but I prefer to press the pin into the bolster and pass freely through the liner. That way, you can ream out some of the hole in the bolster and leave as much to grip the pin as you would like ........

[Messinger]

Disclaimer: I'm a newbie.

Another option which I read here, and am using on my first project, is to stop the blade against the front of the back-spine (if you're using a spine rather than spacers), with the stop pin passing through the spine some small distance back from the leading edge of the spine. Harden the spine just like the blade (same matterial) and you've got a solid stop for the blade. On the knife I'm building now, I have a hardened 1/8" stop pin through the spine 1/16" from the front edge of the spine, and another acting as a dowel 2/3rds of the way down the spine between the 2nd and 3rd screw to keep things lined up good. Pins are a light press fit in the .06 titanium liners. I am very happy with how solid it is when assembled. The second stop pin acting as a dowel REALLY makes the fit nice. (gleaned from Jason Howell's tutorial in the howto section)

-Ben

[Omega]

thats what i did ben and it works real nice\\

bill:evil

[L6steel]

I used to use stop pins but I went Ben's way.
I just prefer a full back spacer and it's alot stronger than a stop pin. I make big folders so I want them to be as strong as possible. It doesn't add any noticable weight either.

Here's a pic Alain.

[Alain M-D]

Thanks everybody for your advice !
I will post my result if I succeeded to doing it...

Alain M-D