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  #1  
Old 10-13-2003, 04:02 PM
Philip Lee Philip Lee is offline
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1095 Vs O 1 Tool steel

Hi All,

I just made knife a from an old Nicholson file (1095), pound for pound compared to O1, given the same blade the perfect heat treat, which steel holds a better edge. I do not have access to O1 so i was just wandering if 1095 was good as O1 for edge holding.

Thanks in advance.

Philip Lee
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2003, 06:59 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Man, that's kinda hard to say. Both steels made great blades and edges. I tend to feel that 1095 might take a better edge but that it will be more brittle than the same blade in O1 if the HT were adjusted so that both held their edge the same way. Most of the answers to that question will likely be very subjective (like my answer was).

Bottom line from my point of view: both steels make great knives and both have been used in some very popular knives. 1095 is used in some Kabar military knives, the very popular Ontario knives, and even in the Trakker knife from the movie The Hunted. O1 has been used in too many knives to name but the best know are probably the Randalls and it's hard to get a better knife than that.

So, if you can't get O1 the whole thing is a moot question anyway. If you do a good job with the 1095 your knives don't have to be second best to anyone's.....


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  #3  
Old 10-13-2003, 07:21 PM
Philip Lee Philip Lee is offline
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Thanks very much Ray.

I came across a carton of Old stock of Nicholson and Wiltshire files at a local hardware shop, i bought all the files for $5 bucks each, about $2.40 US for 14 inch and $1.25 US for the 12 inch. All in all i have about 20 files.

Intend to use it sparingly, learn all about 1095 and make a whole lot of knives.

I got the cost of O1 from Australia it will cost about $90 US dollars for 1 metre piece at 3 inch wide, 5mm thick. So i figure it was more economical for the 1095 at this stage.

I went back and read the thread I posted earlier on W1, files and 1095 hardening etc. Very refreshing.

Thanks again.

Philip Lee
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2003, 09:15 PM
DC KNIVES DC KNIVES is offline
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Since I use both but mostly O-1 my experience is that edge holding seems close to the same. The problem I have with 1095 is brittleness and must be drawn back a little more. Also O-1 has more chromium and will not rust as fast.Dave
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  #5  
Old 10-13-2003, 09:31 PM
Terry_Dodson Terry_Dodson is offline
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o1 steel

you might try searching grainger's website for o1 steel (that is "o" as in oil not 0 as in zero).
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2003, 09:41 PM
Philip Lee Philip Lee is offline
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Thanks very much guys.

Philip Lee
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2003, 01:08 PM
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Danbo Danbo is offline
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Given optimum heat treats, the O1 should be the better blade and hold it's edge a little longer. O1 contains various other stuff like Tungsten, Chrome and Vanadium. But, the little bit of Chrome in O1 will do nothing to inhibit corrosion. At the percentage of .50, the Chrome is only for grain refinement and deep hardening. O1 will rust just as fast as 1095.

I've said it before, and I will keep on saying it. Properly heat treated O1 is all the steel most people need.
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2003, 04:41 AM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Danbo
Given optimum heat treats, the O1 should be the better blade and hold it's edge a little longer. O1 contains various other stuff like Tungsten, Chrome and Vanadium. But, the little bit of Chrome in O1 will do nothing to inhibit corrosion. At the percentage of .50, the Chrome is only for grain refinement and deep hardening. O1 will rust just as fast as 1095.

I've said it before, and I will keep on saying it. Properly heat treated O1 is all the steel most people need.
Danbo, do you have a habit of reading my mind ? ...

I personally find that both are great. But I forge 1095/1084 and use it to get the temper lines and hamon, when those are desirable, and stock remove O-1 since most O-1 available is of very high quality, small grain and available in precision ground. O-1 in that way, is faster to work.

I would also add that Nicholson files are NOT 1095 - they behave quite differently. I think they either have higher carbon - 1.25% or have some vanadium in it - and might be W2. Nicholson files seem to be harder to forge, get a bit red-hard, seem harder and more wear resistant after the HT. Just a bit, but enough to be noticed. Jason.


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  #9  
Old 10-16-2003, 12:54 PM
berettaman12000 berettaman12000 is offline
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I've used both steels for years, and I really don't know which is "best". Both will make excellent blades for anyone who uses a blade a lot.
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  #10  
Old 10-21-2003, 10:52 AM
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Danbo Danbo is offline
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Jason, I have heard that the older Nicholson files were W2, but now they are 1095. I really don't care, but I do find myself checking yard sales and flea markets for the older ones.
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  #11  
Old 10-21-2003, 12:10 PM
Jason Cutter Jason Cutter is offline
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Yeah !!

Quote:
Originally posted by Danbo
Jason, I have heard that the older Nicholson files were W2, but now they are 1095. I really don't care, but I do find myself checking yard sales and flea markets for the older ones.
Like I said, Danbo, you in a habit of reading my mind ... ?

Yard sales, garage sales, flea markets, Sunday markets, Op-shops (our version of eg.- Salvation Army thrift shops). A hobby in itself .


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