MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-28-2013, 11:23 PM
harveyiceman harveyiceman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2
440C chisel edged knife bowed after heat treat



Hello All, I am a newbie and have searched the interwebs for the answer to this question with vague results (sometimes it works sometimes not). I am an Ice Sculptor and as such use many cutting instruments to complete my work. Starting this year I have begun making and selling various rotary tool bits which led me to wanting to make an ice carving specific knife.

The knife I designed is made of 440C and is full tang with a 6" handle and a 6" chisel edged blade at about 20 degrees, the back is flat but hollowed slightly so as to afford easier sharpening. I drilled all of my pin holes and beveled the edge to about 1/32" before sending off to the heat treater.

When my steel returned from HT nothing seemed out the ordinary but upon closer inspection found that the entire knife bowed (concave on the backside) ever so slightly to one side (I have been told not to go back to that heat treater, but at the same time wonder if it is because of the chisel edge), almost unnoticeable. However, my perfectly flat scales do not fit so perfectly to the steels bowed condition.

My question now is "What did I do wrong, and how can I avoid this issue in the future?"

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can shed on my plight. I am sure I missed a step or rushed the gun somewhere. The pic above is the condition they where in when I sent them of to HT.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-29-2013, 08:38 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,793
Warping is caused by stresses in the steel, uneven grinds induce stress. There are other possibilities too, but in your case that seems the most likely culprit. The simple solution is to grind your blades post heat treat. I've always ground all my blades post HT, especially blades made from thin stock and rarely ever have any significant warpage. Grinding after HT also gives you the chance to grind out any slight warp that you might get from other causes.

If your heat treater offers cryo treatment you should have that done to your 440C blades. 440C responds very well to cryo and you'll get a tougher blade with better edge holding ...


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-29-2013, 01:46 PM
WBE WBE is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 483
I would find another heat treater.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:01 PM
harveyiceman harveyiceman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2
Thanks for the replies guys. While I was tapering the tangs flat I found that one of the knives had not warped, the one with the tag attached to it. How fine do finish the steel before HT? 220?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-03-2013, 12:07 AM
ckluftinger's Avatar
ckluftinger ckluftinger is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Delta, British Columbia (Canada, that is...)
Posts: 479
I usually go to 120 before HT. After HT I do 120 again, then 220 and from there by hand to 1000 grit. As Ray said, it helps to do your grinding post HT. Takes a bit longer and uses more belts, but the heavier mass helps to prevent warping. Just have to be careful not to over heat the thin parts during grinding (edge and tip). Good luck!


__________________
Chris K.

Two Mountains Forge
Delta, BC, Canada
www.twomountainsforge.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-16-2013, 05:28 PM
Fortes Fortes is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
I'll be in new york in February. I would buy bars 440c stainless steel 1/8 thick with 2 and 4 inches wide. Can anyone tell me suppliers?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-16-2013, 05:29 PM
Fortes Fortes is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
Please send information to my email jmfadv@gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:15 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,561
Check with The New Jersey Steel Baron or Alpha Knife Supply.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
440c, back, bee, blade, bowed, carving, edge, flat, full tang, grinding, handle, heat, heat treat, knife, knives, made, make, making, newbie, post, scales, sharpening, stainless steel, steel, tang


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
handle of 440C. heat treat or not? Brett Holmes The Newbies Arena 2 06-23-2007 11:04 PM
First knife/First heat treat LABlade The Newbies Arena 14 03-02-2007 10:59 PM
heat treating double edged blades neil1967 The Newbies Arena 7 01-31-2003 04:47 PM
440C heat treat gthomas The Outpost 15 05-14-2002 01:40 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:54 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved