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Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here. |
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#1
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My New 2x72
Like I needed another grinder. My 2x48 works fine,but I am limited on the types of belts I could get. I built this one at work during lunch. It's great being a tool and die maker and having all the right tools to build new toys. I ordered the drive and idler wheels from Rob,they would have taken too long to make with the lathe we have. I ordered the wheels late Monday night on Rob's web site, and they were on my door step Thursday morning, thanks to Rob for the fast service. Now I have a 12" disc, a 2x36, a 2x48, and a 2x72 I'm about to run out of room in the garage. Now I can order some of those fancy belts I keep reading about on the forms.
Thanks for looking and any comments are welcome. Alan |
#2
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Great job Alan, I wish I could bang out something like that out at lunch. While it's fresh on your mind, make up a couple extra tooling arms because sooner or later you'll get accessories. Consider rigging up a dust shroud for that outlet box right behind the belt.
Take care, Craig |
#3
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Craig,
You're right about more attachments. I'm going to order the small wheel arm from Rob when I can. Thanks Alan |
#4
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Nice job.
You may want to consider a longer handle to pull the tension arm down. It may make it a little easier when changing attachments as you won't have to reach back as far. |
#5
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Thank you Sam. I finished my tool rest yesterday, and after i adjusted to where i wanted it ,it was hard to push down the idler arm and thread the belt between the platen and the tool rest. I also think i might have too stiff a spring.
Alan |
#6
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Hi Alan, Sorry if it's obvious, but instead of changing springs you can bump the tooling arm in a bit to lighten the tension and experiment first. It also seems easier to me to thread the belt first and pop it over the tension/tracking wheel last (don't have to aim real careful and hand turning the belt will track it into place). Again, I don't mean to comment if you had a handle on these things.
Good luck, Craig |
#7
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Craig,
I went out and tried it the way you said, it was easier to get the belt on that way. Thanks for the tip, that is a better way to do it. Thank You Alan |
#8
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wow! nice grinder Alan.
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#9
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Very nice grinder Alan. Good talking toy u the other day. Let me know what you decide on steel for that hunter.
Steve __________________ Stephen Vanderkolff Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/ Thanks |
#10
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Alan, does the aluminium drive wheel for driving the belt provide enough grip to keep the belt turning without slippage when appling a lot of pressure. I am building one with a 2 1/4 hp motor and when I grind I apply a lot of pressure. I can bog some grinders down. I have a freind who has a Grizzly and I easily bog it.
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#11
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Dan
The wheels from Rob Frink do not have a smooth finish on them, I guess that's why they don't slip. The thing is a metal eating monster, with a 50 grit belt on it. I almost scraped the first blade I ground on it. Alan |
#12
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I took your advice and have turned an aluminium wheel (rough) for the drive. I will complete other wheels today. I am also working with a belt tech company on developing a belt that will have a soft rubber face to eleminate bump on the platen (on finer grit belts). If I pull this off I will post it.
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#13
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When a drive wheel slips consider belt tension and wrap around the drive wheel. Wrap is simply the amount of contact the belt makes around the circumfrence of the drive wheel. More wrap less slip. The tension a a 2x72 belt should have about 70 lbs tension ( Norton belts ).
Larger diameter drive wheels typically have more wrap also. Last edited by SamLS; 03-14-2007 at 10:16 AM. |
#14
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spring question?
Swampt,
I have a question on the blue spring you used. What are the mechanical specifics on that spring? I need to upgrade the spring on my homemade grinder. thanks, |
#15
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Ok that was from 2007
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Tags |
blade, build, homemade, how to, knife, simple |
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