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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft. |
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#1
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Paracord handle wrap question
This is my first post and would like to say hi to everybody. I was thinking about building my first knife and have a couple of questions. I want to use this paracord handle here.. http://striderknives.com/html/handlewrapping.html
but can't figure out how they start and stop the cord in pictures 2 and 3, where they wrap the cord parallel to each other. Is there 2 separate pieces of paracord used on this handle or what? I was also wondering what kind of finish I could put on the blade. I will be making a tactical knife so I want a dark, non reflective finish. What do you guys suggest? Is it possible to do an oxide blast finish like Strider has or I have a Gerber knife that I think is teflon coated. Let me know what you experts think. Thanks for the help. Exude |
#2
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Hi, Ex!
They're either using two pieces of paracord, or they found a piece with three ends on it. You can darken up a lot of knife steels with one of the organic acids in your refridgerator. Three or four coats of yellow mustard with steel wool rubbing in-between each coat is one that works nice on plain carbon steels. If you want to do the sandblasted finish, you'll need all the proper gear - blasting box, aluminum oxide, air-compressor, and ear-plugs. If it were me, I'd just use aluminum oxide paper and take my time. I find hand rubbing a blade to be a meditative and relaxing experience. Well, unless there are deep gouges in it I do... __________________ Perfection is a process, not a goal. Perfection is a journey, not a destination. |
#3
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Hi Exude!
I'm kinda new too, but welcome. Yes, I believe Strider uses 2 pieces of para cord to wrap their handles one under flat and one over criss cross. If you want a cheap, fast and easy non-reflective coating I suggest black header paint (nothing cheaper or easier that will work as well that I have seen). Apply between first and second temper cycle to bake it on. Tom |
#4
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HOWWWWWWWWWWWWDY! sorry no answer but welcome to the outpost
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#5
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Thanks guys. I want a finish on the blade that will resist corrosion as well. If I do an aluminum oxide blast finish how does it get the dark finish or is that the result after I blast it? I have access to the tools to blast, just don't know what aluminum oxide is exactly. For that underwrap I do the cord like this right..
http://runningdogknife.homestead.com/cordwrap.html I thought that was the way to do it just couldn't tell for sure from Striders pics. Thanks again for the replies. Exude |
#6
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Isn't aluminum oxide blast just sandblasting? That will not help your knife resist corrosion. There's not much that can be done in that department except to use a stainless steel or some kind of baked on coating.
As for the wrap, they use a flat cord as an under-wrap, and the paracord as the final wrap. I wrapped the handle of my hatchet, and used a nylon cord underwrap, and here's how I secured it. To start the wrap, make a loop that's about three inches longer than the handle wrap will be. Lay it flat on the side of the handle, with the loop at the butt-end of the handle. Hold the free end and the long piece to the handle at the ricasso area with your thumb, pull the long piece to the left 90*, and start wrapping. As you wrap down the handle, you will cover the legs of the loop. When you get to the end of the handle, you will have the very tip of the loop exposed. Run the free end of the wrap through the loop, pull it tight, then tug on the free end of the loop (back up at the ricasso). This will pull the loop up under the under-wrap, and will bring the free end of the wrap with it. After you've pulled the loop about half-way under the under-wrap, trim both ends of the cord. I hope that's clear. It's easier to show than to tell, but I don't have any pictures. |
#7
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Exude: Welcome to the Tribe!
Not sure on the handle wrapping, but I want to learn it too! I have had good luck with a local powder coat outfit. They have all diffrent applications in assorted colors and heat temps. I have used a black crackle finish for the best results, Its actualy a smooth finish, but looks kind of like kydex when done, plus the stuff is VERY tuff and wears well. It only has to be baked to 350 deg so heat treatment shouldnt suffer. My guy here lets me leave blades with him and includes them when he has a batch to run, only charges me $5 per blade, although I did give him and his son a necker for their trouble Look in your local phone book under powdercoat, or automotive finishes. Good luck and God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#8
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Thanks for the help. I'm going to do a Gun Kote finish. Thanks everybody. Exude
Last edited by Exude; 12-05-2003 at 03:06 PM. |
#9
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We use two pieces of cord.
One with the guts in, one with no guts..... The one with no guts is really there just to cover the metal of the tang. When you wrap the handle, just remember to always put the same cord on top, and make sure the cord does a 180 degree turn and goes back the same way it came when you wrap. m . |
#10
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Exude,
Make sure you blast the steel before you use KG.Use some 100 grit sand or 80 grit oxide.No glass or ceramic.You need something for it to stick to.Make sure you use the moly and not the teflon.The moly stays on alot longer,especialy if you plan on using a kydex sheath.I set my oven on 200 insted of what KG recomends.It goes on smoother and dries a little faster. |
#11
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I usually spray a knife handle with a rust preventative and soak my 550 cord in boiling water for 5 minutes and then wrap it. I leave the guts in the cord.
I fold the cord in half and stick the folded end through the hold in the handle closest to the blade. Take that loop back over the top of the knife and stick the two loose ends through that loop, then pull it tight. Then, it's just a matter of doing the first steps of tying your shoes back and forth on each side of the handle until you get the the hole at the rear of the handle. Pull both loose ends through that hole and tie a knot, then put a little super glue on the knot. I like to pull the cord really tight during the wrap so that it won't shift when it dries. Makes your hands sore, but it's worth it. I haven't had one come loose yet. I'll stick a picture up to show how the wrap comes out. Sorry for the crappy pic. |
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