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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft. |
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#1
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tools
The most used tools are my anvil, hammer and my old arm., but really liking the new toy, the fly press, it saving my arm.
Not so lean Gene, the forging machine __________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/ |
#2
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Have you tried it for knife forging yet?
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#3
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No knifes from the press, just some household items and testing tooling by, drawing, upsetting, fullering, hot cutting, punching.
Thin stock cools rapidly so in my opinion, forging a blade edge taper would be still done by hand and hammer. __________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/ |
#4
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Gene,
A hydrolic press really saves the arm too and you can bevel with it as well. You are only limited to what dies you use. I'll never go back:cool: |
#5
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Dana, The little bit that I tried Gene's fly press I just don't think at least to myself it would be much help to forging knives. I used it for about 10 minutes and know thats pretty quick judgement but it was enough for me to stop wondering if I should get one..... Now for what Gene is doing he's got himself the right tool....
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#6
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Gene, from the demos I's seen I think a motorized hydraulic press would be great for knife and other work, you still have to use muscle power on a fly press. Maybe someday Santa will build me one.
Dana, just did a test on drawing 1/4" X 1" mild steel on the press. It went better than a previous test, guess I'm getting more control. The taper on the long piece was made with 1/2" top and botom fullers, the short piece was tapered with a 1/4" top fuller, both were flattened with the flat die in the ram. If I were forging a knife blades the fullers should have a bit more radius on the ends so not to leave end marks on the steel. Looks like to me you could do a distal (spelling) taper on a piece then finish up by hand. __________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/ |
#7
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Christmas gifts.
A tapered punch turned from 1" H-13 is in the tool holder on the right. It has about a 3 degree taper. It's used to size up predrilled 11/16" in steel candleholders made from 1" square bar. At first I tried punching the hole with it, whoaoooo, gonna take some time and a lot of heats. hmmmmm, hydraulic press!!
Then drilled a 11/16" hole in the bar and sized the hole with the punch. Antiseize was painted on the tool to help prevent sticking, even then I had to pursuade it off with a hammer. Found it better to take several heats to size the hole. The holders were upset before drilling and sizing. The decorative bottoms on the candleholders and copper mouse hooks have been shown before. They are 3/16" X 3" mild steel. __________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/ |
#8
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I wonder if the press would be good for making mokume? If so that could be a nice little sideline buisness.
__________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo |
#9
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Sidelines are good, truth, got so many fun forging projects, I rarely do a knife anymore, shame on me, but I still forging ahead.
Have a lot of knives shelved in the "To Do box", but who don't. Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas all you iron pounders. __________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/ |
Tags |
blade, forging, knife, knives |
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