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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2001, 12:57 PM
dogman
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Who has used the tutorials to make their folders?


We have these great folders tuts, who has made a knife with one? Let's see some pictures
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2001, 09:44 PM
Frank Niro
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I have enjoyed making liner locks for several years but I still enjoyed Jason Howell's tutorial and have picked up several usefull tips. Sorry I still have to learn to post so --til it happens. I still have to get to lock back and the tutorial of Neil's will sure be great to have handy. Frank
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  #3  
Old 04-24-2001, 07:39 AM
Jason G Howell
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Thanks Frank. I wish I could have included more in the tutorial. Next will be mini tutorials covering in a little more detail some of the things I get done in the shop.

I'll have a couple ready to shoot this week. I'll get em in here, Dogman.

I'm also ready to see somebody else's finished folder!

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  #4  
Old 04-28-2001, 09:00 PM
Shotgunone
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I have made a few slip joint folders and was studying up on linerlocks when Jason's tutorials came out. They were a big help. I don't follow them exactly but still they answered lots of questions. I even downloaded all 4 web pages and save them to my 'puter for reference.

I am sure you have seen all these knives in the gallery but here they are again anyway.

Thanks Jason and all the others for their help

My first liner lock


Number Dos


#3


(sorry for the bad pic's a scanner is all I got They do look better than the pict's)



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  #5  
Old 04-29-2001, 08:15 PM
eadus
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G'day gents,

I have used Jason's tutorial and Bob Terzuola's book to make a couple of liner-locks and hope to have them finished very shortly and will post some pictures when they are. One thing I have problems with was the 10 degree angle on the back of the tang and the front of the spring, so I had a set of filing blocks made up and it makes it so much easier and I have included a couple of pictures. One thing to note is the bolts and the dowls must be on a 10 degree angle also.








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  #6  
Old 04-29-2001, 09:04 PM
Jason G Howell
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Awesome job Tony! Linerlocks are simple in construction, but as you all know, they can eat your lunch.

The jig looks like something I need to add to my bench. I have a 10 degree block I slide up to my disc grinder and slide my blade up the block. I could set my disc grinder every time, but this saves a little setup time.

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  #7  
Old 04-30-2001, 02:30 PM
Frank Niro
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An easy way to get the angle on the blade is to to fix your grinding table at 90 degres, lay a piece of 1/8" steel on the table parallel to the belt or disc 3/4" away. { a couple of layers of making tape over top will hold it there and prevent scratching your blade. If you measure this angle it will be 10 degres plus or minus one. A little care first time establishing exactly where the 1/8" plate should be and you will have the exact distance you may prefer for the next time. I do this on a belt grinder but I'm sure it will work on a disc as well. I do my leaf sping by holding it at 90 degres to the table with the leaf spread open with a little holder I've made up that looks like a small square, except that the small arm has been attached to a piece of metal that is approx. 1/4x1x11/2" that acts as base. The arm is only about 1/2" x2" high x.050" or so thick. A !/8" hole is drilled about center and near the edge of this piece. If you place the holder in front of you the edge you will drill near is the one on your right. Once your liner is split and marked for length open the leaf and slip it on the holder with the leaf to the right hand side. Place a small bolt through the stop pin hole and the hole in the holder. Establish a parallel position between the mark on your leaf and the front of the holder arm. Tighten down the screw and you should be prepared to shorten the spring.Be extremly carefull in your grinding!!!! Check to see that you really are cutting parallel to your mark and that you don't over do the grinding. You can get a fine burr formed that will look like a scribed line!!! Try Fit. You can reestablish the position by leaving the screw just snug, and then tightening after bringing the leaf up against the platen. Final fitting can be done with a hand file. This angle will change dependant upon the space between the liners, the distance the leaf spring has to move and the arc you place on the spring. On a knife made for right hand opening the leaf spring -looking at it from the bottom- must be cut so that the right hand side is the longest. If the left hand side is cut longest the blade will not be locked open . When all is said and done it is this leading edge that locks the blade open. I have one liner lock that I have carried and used- I am on my second blade- for over 12 years. This knife has liners made from 301 1/2 stainless. It still locks as it should. I now also use titanium and I'm sure it will work equaly well. By the way I use 120 grit to grind the blade angle and 400 to grind the leaf. Neither of these should be finshed down any further. I hope this is usefull to at least some degree.I also hope my explanation is satisfactory but I sure will be pleased to answer any inquiries. Frank.
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  #8  
Old 05-08-2001, 07:28 PM
eadus
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Well here it is gents, the first liner-lock (am I allowed to call it that?) that I've put together. The blade is RWL34 stainless damascus, the slabs are ivory and the bolsters are some mokume that I made some time ago out of copper and iron. I have blued the mokume to highlight the copper.




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  #9  
Old 05-08-2001, 10:41 PM
Jason G Howell
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Now THAT is sweet Neil!

But you can't call it a linerlock It's a knife "of linerlock design", but you'll probably get sued for that too...

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  #10  
Old 05-10-2001, 09:00 PM
Frank Niro
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Looks great Niel. Real nice colour to help as well.
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  #11  
Old 05-11-2001, 07:20 PM
Jason G Howell
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OK, here's one...








1084 & 15N20 blade modified 'W' pattern, bolsters of same makup, fossilized walrus ivory scales, and walrus ivory cabachon in the thumbob.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2001, 07:21 PM
Jason G Howell
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and another...








1084 & 15N20 2 bar composite of jellyroll and random blade and bolsters, stag scales, and a stag cab in the thumbob.

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  #13  
Old 05-11-2001, 07:24 PM
Jason G Howell
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And one I'm "almost" finished with. Loose ladder 1084 & 15N20 blade, pinwheel bolsters, and snakewood scales. An edge, a snakewood cab and a custom thumbob are all that's left to do.









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  #14  
Old 05-12-2001, 06:27 PM
Frank Niro
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Those are sure some great knives Jason!! You have some real variety of materials. Frank.
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