Patterns and such

[DaveL]

I have a drawer full of patterns, most of plastic and some of brass. WIth folding knives, I think of the pattern as a very important part of the work. So, I am curious about what all of you use as pattern material and for that matter any tips or tricks with patterns. Bob Ogg was a personal friend of mine and never used or believed in patterns for anything. And he made a pretty good folder at that. Alas, I am not that good and therefore am asking for help.

[Don Robinson]

You might want to check out the folder designs offered on my web site.

[Ray Rogers]

For folders that I make a lot of, my patterns are made from thin sheet metal . The purpose of a pattern to me is so that I can get the general size and shape of the blade and handle about the same on each knife. Patterns also help me locate the pivot hole and the thumb stud hole. All other holes such as screw holes that hold the knife together, holes for screws that attach the scales, and the lscrews for the pocket clip are done free hand each time I make a knife. This method allows me to make small refinements on each knife as opposed to using 'hard' patterns that guarantee every knife will be identical to the last......

[Jeremy Krammes]

I first draw my basic design on paper to the exact size that I want. I draw in all parts, like pivot, lock, spine, and screws. I then trace the parts onto asatate (sp), and cut out the blade, and handle. I use these pieces to determine the exact placement of the pivot, stop pin and lock. I want to make sure the blade fits in the handle. It's easy to see where things are because it's clear. Then I just trace around these pieces on the steel, and Ti to get my rough cutouts. You can also punch through it with your center punch to mark for your drilling. I can take some pics if any one would like.

Jeremy

[DaveL]

I appreciate the answers posted and yes, Jeemy, I would like some pictures and give me the name of that material again. I have thought of cutting out patterns on 1/16 inch A2, since I really like the steel and have some around I think. But the first pattern is the key and that may be the problem. Dave

[Bill Vining]

For the last few months I have been using a CAD system. The one great thing about this is that you can open and close the knife right in the software. You can move the pivot around, change positions of the blade etc. Once it's done, I just seperate all the pieces and print them out. A little 3m spray adehesive to stick the on the Ti, stainless or whatever.

Bill

[Jeremy Krammes]

Here's the pic. I think it's spelled acetate. It's just clear plastic film. You can use the stuff they make stensils out of for painting.

Jeremy

[Chris_Crawford]

Hay Dave, I make most of my patterns out of 1/16" O-1. I then heat treat the pieces and leave them in their hardest state. This allows me to use the patterns for drill guides without worrying about changing the size of the holes.

When transferring a pattern to the steel that I'm making the knife from, I first drill one hole and place a pin through the pattern and the metal. If there is a second or third hole to drill (liners or springs), I drill the next hole, put a pin in it, and then drill the next hole. Once I have all of the holes drilled and pins in them, I scribe around the pattern onto the piece I'm working with.

-chris