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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Sam Brown sheath
Here is my finished sheath:
The owner did not want a belt carry but something to cover the blade. I put antique brown on it but it turns out orangish and did not rub off very well. It was to darken the stamps mostly but it did not do that I will have to work on that aspect of things. Maybe more of it or less? I have not put the any thing else on it so I can still add another coat? Thanks for all the help. Cheers Ron. |
#2
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I don't use very much dye or antique finishes so you need to wait for Sandy to come in an either correct me or verify my opinion.
If you used ANTIQUE finish, it is a "wipe off" type product and meant only to highligt the carved or stamped area. It will literally wipe off the higher and smoother areas of the piece until it dries. If you don't wipe off the darker excess, then you have a splotchy job, and even if you do, the rate at which the antique is absorbed will still give sort of a splotch effect. This is the"antique" look. The anitques also will partially seal the grain, making it difficult to follow up the darker spirit or oil dye because the sealed grain will not absorb the dye evenly. A possible, but not guaranteed solution would be to thoroughly clean the entire sheath with deglazer and then try Mike T's method of wetting the entire sheath and then applying spirit or oil dye. It's almost a toss up as to which is easier....the fix or making a new one. That is the reason I don't use much dye or antique. It's a pain in the *ss, but that is strictly my own personal opinion and not meant to be anti dye advice. Paul Edited to add: Sorry if I created a false impression. Mike T has used the wet leather dying method and has posted may times in response to questions about quality dying. To my knowledge he has never taken credit for inventing the process...only using the process. There is relatively little that is "new" in the leather business. We all use already discovered methods of doing things, and heretofore was not necessary to acknowledge credit. __________________ Basic Pouch Sheaths and Advanced Blade sheaths DVDs are available at www.chriscrawfordknives.com ***New third DVD available at the same web site*** Paul Long-- 108 Briarwood Ln. W.-- Kerrville, Texas 78028-- Ph. 830 367 5536--- pfl@cebridge.net Last edited by sheathmaker; 10-04-2006 at 01:14 PM. |
#3
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YOu should be able to clean the sheath with acetone to remove the antiquing and refinish - either dye it before using the antique finish or use a plain finish, oil finish, Bag Kote, Super Shene, or ?????
Quote:
__________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. Last edited by Chuck Burrows; 10-04-2006 at 10:53 AM. |
#4
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I've been doing sheaths a long time and I use lots of methods that are not, how shall we say, "with the grain" but I don't ever remember saying that I invented anything. But I doubt I ever got it from Stohlman though as I don't read his stuff and I don't keep a journal of where I read what. It's a shame that Paul has to carefully watch his Ps & Qs when the writes "try Mike T's method" when I imagine what he really means is "try the method that Mike T. tirelessly posts around here from time to time". __________________ Sheath dude Ontario Canada Last edited by Mike T.; 10-04-2006 at 06:14 PM. |
#5
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Quote:
__________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#6
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__________________ Sheath dude Ontario Canada |
#7
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In a (feeble?) attempt to get back on subject, let me make an observation just aside of the finishing question. If you're going to do a refinish/remake effort on this sheath, and if that will include a general wetting process, you might want to form the top of the sheath just a bit to allow the knife to seat fully in the body of the sheath. If you do, it looks to me like you'll also have to re-make the keeper strap (shorten it a bit).
Having said that, I like the work you've done on it ! My preference is usually for simplicity and functionality, and I think you've achieved both Mike __________________ Trying to become the kind of man my dog thinks I am http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft...E4E363B}&tio=0 |
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blade, knife |
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